Ash-e Haft Daneh - Persian Seven Bean Hearty Soup - Mehregan Festival Recipe

Mehregan/Mehr is an ancient Iranian festival celebrating the start of the beautiful fall season. With its vibrant foliage, crisp days, and harvesting of crops, مهرگان (Mehregan) is traditionally celebrated a few days after the first day of fall (Autumnal Equinox) on the 10th day of  Mehr (the seventh month of the Iranian calendar). In the past, festivities would last for several days. Opinions about the exact date of Mehregan may differ since the historical records show that the date has been changed a few times throughout history. The wordمهر "Mehr" in Mehregan means 'sun, kindness, love, and friendship' in Persian. جشن مهرگان Jashn-e Mehregan is attributed to Mithra/Mehr, the goddess of the sun and brightness, and also the angelic divinity of friendship, justice, and oath, dating back to the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism. One of the most valuable lessons of Prophet Zartosht (Zoroaster), that is still cherished today, is his teachings of good thoughts, good words, and good deeds.

Mithra Slaying the Bull, Metropolitan Museum of Art

It's also believed that Mehregan marks the triumph of Kaveh Ahangar, the blacksmith who fought the tyrant king Zahak and defeated him, saving the people from his brutal reign, which resulted in the crowning of Fereydun as king in the epic Shahnameh (Book of Kings), written by the great Persian poet Ferdowsi. Therefore, Mehregan is also considered a day when good destroys evil, a common thread in many old Iranian fables.

 Freydun defeats Zahak

Growing up, my family celebrated Nowruz (Persian New Year) and Yalda (the longest night) every year more grandly than the year before. However, I don't have any recollection of any Mehregan celebrations. I can't think of a particular reason why we didn't celebrate Mehregan at home, other than perhaps the timing of it being inconvenient for my parents. The first day of fall is the first day of school in Iran. My guess is that for my parents, having to deal with a bunch of kids and getting each of us ready for school must have been overwhelming enough around that time of year! And so when the dust was settled, Mehregan had come and gone. Now, more than ever, I'm passionate about paying a long overdue ode to this centuries-old Iranian festival for the purpose of introducing it to my children as well as others and preserving it for future generations. Plus, we can always use a little more mehr, light and good cheer in our lives. This festival also serves as a necessary reminder that, similar to how the struggles and efforts of Kaveh Ahangar came to fruition beautifully, we, too, can overcome our personal challenges and obstacles.

Food is an integral part of most celebrations, and Mehregan is no exception. On this date, fresh fruits such as grapes, pomegranate, apples, quince, figs, and persimmon were served along with an assortment of nuts, dried fruits, sweets, and rosewater. In my research for a Mehregan main dish, I came across the آش هفت غله - Ash-e Haft Daneh (seven bean soup) in a few written records of a typical Mehregan feast. And in my quest for preserving traditions, I decided to recreate this recipe, which was perhaps once served on our ancestral sofreh (spread).

I chose to call it a seven-bean soup, but this is more than just a soup, and it's more than just beans.
آش هفت دانه - Ash-e haft daneh is a combination of beans, seeds, whole wheat, and some vegetables. The main ingredients in the original recipe were listed as wheat, barley, rice, chickpeas, lentils, mung beans, and millet. There are many different variations of this traditional ash (stew/soup). You can make this soup with lamb shank or lamb/beef stock and add vegetables such as parsley, cilantro, chives/leeks, spinach, and dill. However, since this is a hearty and flavor-packed soup, I didn't think adding any kind of meat was necessary. Also, it is not loaded with vegetables like ash-e reshteh, and it does not have noodles either. I replaced millet and mung beans with two other kinds of beans and used tomatoes for added flavor.

Ash-e Haft Daneh

Ingredients

Serves 8

-1/2 cup chickpeas
-1/2 cup pinto beans
-1/2 cup white beans
-1/2 cup lentils
-1/2 cup pearl barley
-1/2 cup bulgur
-1/3 cup rice
-2 large tomatoes, grated
-1 bunch parsley, chopped
-1 bunch chives or scallions/leeks, chopped
-1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
-1/2 teaspoon pepper, or to taste
-Juice of a lemon

For Topping:

Piaz Dagh:
-1 large onion, thinly sliced
-3 large garlic cloves, chopped
-1 tablespoon dried mint
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-Oil

-Liquid kashk (whey) or yogurt

Method:

1. Place the chickpeas, pinto beans, white beans, and barley in a large bowl, rinse, add a quart of water, and soak for six hours.
2. Drain and place in a large pot.
3. Rinse the rice, lentils, and bulgur and add to the pot.
4. Add water to cover by at least two inches, bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, cook for one hour over medium-low heat.
5. Add the grated tomatoes with their juices to the pot. 
6. Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the onions, saute for 20 minutes until golden, add the garlic and turmeric, and saute for another 2-3 minutes. Add the dried mint, saute for an additional minute or two. 
7. Add parsley, chives, and 1/2 of the sauteed onions to the pot. Add salt and pepper. Cover and cook for another 45-50 minutes on low heat or until the beans are all very tender. Add lemon juice toward the end of cooking. Add more water if needed and adjust the seasoning.

Ladle ash into a serving bowl and top with kashk and fried onion. Serve hot with warm bread and yogurt.

A group of Iranian food bloggers have prepared delicious recipes to celebrate the ancient Persian Festival of Mehregan. Please check out the following links:

Mehregan 2014 Round Up:

Ahu Eats: Badoom Sookhte Torsh
All Kinds of Yum: Jeweled Carrot Salad
Bottom of the Pot: Broccoli Koo Koo
Cafe Leilee: Northern Iranian Pomegranate Garlic and Chicken Stew
Coco in the Kitchen: Zeytoon Parvardeh
Della Cucina Povera: Ghormeh Sabzi
Family Spice: Khoreshteh Kadoo | Butternut Squash Stew
Fig & Quince: Festive Persian Noodle Rice & Roasted Chicken Stuffed with Yummies 
for Mehregan
Honest and Tasty: Loobia Polo | Beef and Green Bean Rice
Lab Noon: Adas Polo Risotto
Lucid Food: Sambuseh
Marjan Kamali: Persian Ice Cream with Rosewater and Saffron
My Caldron: Anaar-Daneh Mosamma | Pomegranate Stew
My Persian Kitchen: Keshmesh Polow | Persian Raisin Rice
Noghlemey: Parsi Dal Rice Pie
Parisa's Kitchen: Morasa Polow | Jeweled Rice
Sabzi: Ash-e Mast, Yogurt Soup with Meatballs
The saffron Tales: Khoresht-e Gheimeh
Simi's Kitchen: Lita Turshisi | Torshi-e Liteh | Tangy aubergine pickle
Spice Spoon: Khoresht-e-bademjaan
The Unmanly Chef: Baghali Polow ba Mahicheh 
ZoZoBaking: Masghati

روز مهر  و ماه مهر و جشن فرخ مهرگان 

مهر بفزا ای نگارماه چهر مهربان 

مهربانی کن به جشن مهرگان و روز مهر

مهربانی کن به روز مهر و جشن مهرگان  

  

مسعود سعد سلمان ~

Happy Mehr & Happy Mehregan!

Dolmeh Barg-e Kalam - Persian Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

دلمه برگ کلم - Dolmeh barg-e kalam (stuffed cabbage leaves) is a delicious variation of the well-loved dolmeh (stuffed vegetable) family popular across Iran and neighboring regions. This dish was a staple in our home growing up, and one of my mother's personal favorites. 

I had heard my mother's story of a Nowruz (Persian New Year) long ago, when she was young. She single-handedly stuffed nearly 100 cabbage leaves with a fragrant mixture of herbs, rice, meat, and a few sweet raisins. That day, her dolmeh-ye kalam became legendary, the most exquisite and memorable version she ever made, enjoyed by family, distant relatives, and friends who visited during the Nowruz holiday.

To achieve the best results in preparing Persian meals, beyond basic culinary skills, you need a genuine appreciation for the creativity, wisdom, care, and effort that go into most Iranian dishes. Along with skills and enthusiasm, a touch of patience is essential. Persian food takes time, but don't let that discourage you. In Persian cooking, every ingredient counts and every step matters. 

For those who are short on time or are not as passionate about cooking, there are plenty of classic Persian dishes that are simple, satisfying, and perfect for any time of the day, such as kookoo sibzamini, kookoo sabzi, borani esfenaj, kotlet, or the comforting combinations of noon o panir o gerdoo (bread, cheese, and walnuts) or noon o mast (bread and yogurt).

While the tasty dolmeh-ye barg kalam is simmering away in its rich tomato-based sauce on the stove, I often think about those before us, the generations who prepared meals for their families centuries ago,  cooking over wood fires when water could only be reached through قنات - qanat (underground aqueducts), چاه آب  (wells), or چشمه (springs). Somehow, they managed to preserve their culinary traditions and pass them on, verbally and lovingly, to the next generation, keeping alive the art of feeding both body and soul. 

I feel strongly about maintaining the authenticity of our recipes as much as possible, and about not letting them be forgotten or overlooked, amid our hectic and hurried lifestyles.  

I leave you with this poem by Saadi Shirazi:

ابر و باد و مه و خورشید و فلک در کارند              تا تو نانی به کف آری و به غفلت نخوری

سعدی شیرازی ~

Clouds, wind, mist, the sun, and the universe are all at work so that you may earn your daily bread and not consume it in oblivion.

This dolmeh recipe is known for its delicate sweet-sour flavor. Depending on your taste, you can adjust the amount of sugar or lemon juice (or vinegar) to your liking. I personally prefer mine on the tangy side, so I skip the sugar. If you like to add raisins to the filling, they bring just the right amount of natural sweetness, a much healthier alternative to sugar. You can even mix equal parts barberries and raisins to achieve that beautiful balance of sweet-sour flavors. 

One final note: my mother's original recipe did not include any tomato sauce - that's just my own little addition, a nod to the modern palate and an ode to tomato.

Dolmeh Barg-e Kalam - Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

Ingredients
Serves 6

-1 large cabbage, washed, center core removed

For filling:

-2/3 pound lean ground beef
-1/2 cup long-grain rice, rinsed
-1/2 cup yellow split peas, rinsed
-1 1/2 cups of chopped fresh herbs (a combination of flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, basil, tarragon, mint) washed, hard stems removed
-1/4 - 1/2 cup raisins (optional)
-1/4 - 1/2 cup barberries (optional)
-1 large yellow onion, chopped
-2 large garlic cloves, minced
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-A pinch of cumin
-2 tablespoons liquid saffron
-Salt and pepper

For the Sauce:

-2 tablespoons tomato paste
-1 medium onion, thinly sliced
-Juice of a large lemon/lime or a tablespoon of vinegar
-1 tablespoon powdered sugar (optional)
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Vegetable oil/olive oil

Method:

1. In a large pot, bring 6-8 cups of water to a boil over high heat, add a tablespoon of salt, then gently add the head of cabbage to the boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes. Then drain. Carefully separate the cabbage leaves, and cut out the hard rib in each leaf. Set aside. 
2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion, and saute until light golden brown. Add the minced garlic and the turmeric powder, stirring and cooking for a few more minutes.
3. Add the ground beef, along with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the meat is fully browned. Set aside.
4. In a medium pot, combine the rice and the yellow split peas, and add enough water to cover the rice by an inch. Stir in a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of oil. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat, partially cover to let the steam escape, and cook until the water is fully absorbed. Set aside.
5.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the meat mixture, rice, peas, chopped herbs, cumin, and saffron. Mix well. 
6. In a large pan, saute the sliced onion in 3 tablespoons of olive oil until translucent, add a tablespoon of tomato paste, and cook for 2-3 minutes until it loses its raw taste. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add 3 cups of water and bring to a gentle simmer. Let the sauce thicken slightly.
7. While the sauce simmers, place a small scoop of the mixture into the center of each cabbage leaf. Fold in the bottom, sides, and roll up tightly to form a neat wrap.
8. Arrange the stuffed cabbage rolls, seam-side down, next to each other in a large pot. Pour the tomato sauce over the dolmeh, cover, and cook on medium-low heat for 1 hour. In the last 10-15 minutes of cooking, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar and just a sprinkle of sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To serve: arrange the dolmeh on a platter and serve warm with mast-o-khiar and sabzi khordan.

At the beach with family!

Enjoy!

Bademjan Shekam-por - Persian Stuffed Eggplant

بادمجان شکم پر - Bademjan shekam-por is an open-faced fried eggplant stuffed with ground beef and vegetables, simmered in a rich and tangy tomato-based sauce, and topped with slivered almonds. This flavorful eggplant dish originates from the northwestern region of Azerbaijan, Iran. 

It's worth noting that although you might see the word eggplant spelled and pronounced in several ways, بادمجان، بادمجون، بادنجان, بادنجون  (bademjan, bademjoon, badenjan, and badenjoon), they all mean the same thing. 

Eggplants have been an essential part of Persian cooking for hundreds of years. Their versatility, great flavor, and silky tender flesh have inspired countless dishes such as khoresh bademjan, borani bademjan, kashk-e bademjan, mirza ghasemi, and torshi bademjan (pickled eggplant), just to name a few. I am always on the lookout for new Persian eggplant recipes, and I've made it my mission to collect and write about every eggplant dish I come across from homes in every corner of Iran. Yet, despite the many variations and flavors, my personal favorite remains the simplest of all, pan-fried unpeeled eggplant slices lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. I love the taste of the eggplant skin, and I usually keep it on unless I'm serving guests.

According to a recent Huffington Post article about Persian Food, "Persian food is criminally underrepresented in America." I couldn't agree more, and I would add that it's misunderstood as well. One common misconception is that Persian food is not vegetarian-friendly, which, in my opinion, couldn't be further from the truth. Aside from the array of globally known Persian kebab dishes, most, if not all, khoresh (stews) can be prepared without meat. There are also many wonderful vegetable-based dishes, such as various kinds of kookoo/kuku, borani, and the hearty ash reshteh. Not to mention that a platter of sabzi khordan (fresh herbs) accompanies lunch and dinner almost every day, along with salad and torshi  (pickled vegetables). And of course, we eat fruits like there's no tomorrow!

For a healthier twist on the traditional bademjan shekampor, you can bake the eggplants in the oven before stuffing them instead of frying. In the traditional recipe, the eggplant is either fully peeled or partially peeled, leaving stripes of skin. Whether you choose to bake or fry, peel or leave the skin on, it all depends on your personal taste and dietary preferences. For a vegetarian variation, you may simply replace the ground beef with rice or a mix of rice and vegetables. Bademjan shekampor can be served as a main dish with rice or as a side dish or appetizer.

Bademjan Shekam-por - Persian Stuffed Eggplant

Ingredients

Serves 4

-4 medium-sized eggplant, peeled in stripes using a vegetable peeler
1/2 pound ground meat (lamb or beef)
-1 large onion, chopped
-3 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed (small)
-1/2 pound fresh green beans,  trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces
-3 medium firm tomatoes, 1 finely diced, 2 sliced
-2 large garlic cloves, minced
-1 tablespoon tomato paste
-1/3 teaspoon turmeric
-1/4 teaspoon cumin
-A pinch of red pepper
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Juice of a lemon
-2-3 tablespoons slivered almonds
-Olive oil (extra virgin) or vegetable oil

Method:

1. In a large skillet, heat 3-4 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Fry the eggplants until golden brown. Set aside to cool.
2. In a large skillet, heat a little oil over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onions and sauté until translucent. Add minced garlic and cook for another minute. Stir in the turmeric.
3. Add the ground beef and cook until browned. Then add the potatoes, green beans, and chopped tomatoes, one at a time, sautéing each for a few minutes before adding the next. Season with cumin, red pepper, and salt and black pepper to taste. Sauté all the ingredients together. Stir well and add 1/2 cup of water.  Stir everything well, then add 1/2 cup of water. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. Once the eggplants are cool enough to handle, gently cut them open lengthwise. Sprinkle lightly with salt and gently loosen the flesh with a fork. Generously spoon the mixture into the open eggplant and top with slivered almonds.
5. In a wide pan, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add tomato paste and stir well. After a couple of minutes, arrange the tomato slices in single or slightly overlapping layers in the pan. Place the stuffed eggplant over the layered tomatoes. Add a cup of hot water and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes on low heat.

To serve, transfer the stuffed eggplants to a platter. Serve with rice, warm bread, and a side of cool yogurt.

Enjoy!

Dizi - Traditional Iranian Lamb Chickpea Soup

دیزی Dizi, also known as abgousht, is a popular highlight of Persian cuisine. Traditionally, it was cooked in small stone crocks or metal pots. The history of abgoosht (or abgousht) dates back centuries, when it was made simply with lamb and chickpeas. With the introduction of New World ingredients such as potatoes and tomatoes, this modest meat-and-chickpea soup evolved into a more substantial and more flavorful meal. 

Cooking in clay/stone cookware is one of the oldest culinary methods in Iran, where the clay pot is placed over indirect heat or a slow fire for hours, allowing the ingredients to meld together. Because of its long cooking time and the need for a very hot stove, dizi was often purchased from specialty shops rather than prepared at home. In modern kitchens, the clay pot is now used mostly for serving rather than cooking. Still, this slow-simmered, humble, and deeply satisfying dish continues to nourish the body and soul.

Traditionally, it's served in two parts. First, the flavorful broth is strained into a large bowl or individual bowls and served. Then the remaining ingredients, lamb, potatoes, tomatoes, chickpeas, and beans are all mashed together using a goosht-koob (a traditional meat masher). This mixture is served on the side with raw onions, torshi (pickles),  sabzi khordan (fresh herbs), and plain yogurt. Noon sangak is an excellent choice of bread for this dish. Baked in a tanoor (tandoor) over a bed of hot pebbles, sangak's toasty flavor makes it a star of the meal as the stew itself. 

Savoring dizi is an experience of togetherness, bonding, and sharing. Whether you are sitting cross-legged on the floor in comfortable clothing around a sofreh (traditional tablecloth) or gathered at a dining table dressed in designer attire, the joy remains the same: indulging in a warm, comforting blend of flavors while enjoying conversation and creating memories. Every time I prepare abgoosht, I remember the scene from Ganj-e Gharoon, an old Iranian film forever etched in my mind. In it, Fardin and Zohouri mash the meat, tap the marrow from the bones, pound a raw onion by hand, and eat abgoosht as they sing and tease Arman! There are many variations of abgoushts, each with its own regional and family traditions. This recipe was passed down from my mother, which I still treasure and often use.

Dizi - Iranian Lamb & Chickpea Soup

Ingredients
Serves 4-6

-3 lamb shanks (about 3 pounds)
-1 cup chickpeas, rinsed, soaked overnight
-1 cup white beans, rinsed, soaked overnight
-2 large onions, peeled, quartered
-4 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and cut in half
-3 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and cut in half
- 3 whole limoo amani (dried lemons) found in Persian grocery stores
-1/2 tablespoon turmeric
-A pinch of cinnamon
-1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
-2 tablespoons vegetable oil
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Water (8 cups)

Method:

1. In a large soup pot, place the lamb shanks and add eight cups of water. 
2. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. 
3. Add the turmeric, cinnamon, limoo amani, onions, chickpeas, beans, salt, and pepper.  Cover and cook on medium heat for about 1 hour.
4. In a small skillet,  heat the oil over medium heat. Sauté the tomato paste briefly to mellow its raw taste.
5. Add the sauteed tomato paste, tomatoes, and potatoes to the pot, cover, and continue cooking for another 1 hour or until all ingredients are tender.
6. Taste and adjust seasoning. Remove from the heat. Drain the broth through a sieve, discard the bones, and mash the remaining ingredients using a masher until well blended.

To serve: Ladle the broth into a large serving bowl and spoon the meat and potato mixture onto a serving platter. Serve alongside warm bread, pickles, yogurt, and fresh herbs.

Enjoy!

Pan-Fried Turkey Burgers - Parsi Style

For those of you who read my blog regularly, you probably know that this blog is solely dedicated to Persian home cooking, the kind of food that I grew up with, and that I also write about recipes from different regions of Iran that I mostly learn either from my good friends or from reading those few authentic Iranian cookbooks out there. However, this time, I'm going beyond posting my own recipe or writing about a mahali (regional) recipe from somewhere in Iran. For this turkey burger recipe, I am going back several hundred years into ancient Persian history, when a large number of devout Zartoshtian-e Irani (Parsi) fled their homeland after the Arab invasion and migrated to southern India in the 10th century AD, because of religious persecution. Zoroastrianism was the dominant religion of the region at the time and was founded by Zartosht (Zoroaster). The important message of Zoroastrianism is pendar-e nik (to think good thoughts), goftar-e nik (to say good words), and kerdar-e nik (to do good deeds).

There's a well-known story about the Parsi settlement in India and their cultural absorption. It's been said that the ruler of Gujarat, Jadi Rana, was not very welcoming and was concerned about overpopulation problems. In a meeting with the king, the Parsi leader asked for a full glass of milk and a spoonful of sugar. Then, as he gently added the sugar into the glass of milk without any spillage, he said, "We are like sugar, we will only sweeten your country." The Parsi community blended and thrived well in India while it also maintained its religion.

Parsi cuisine, with its roots in ancient Persia, is a unique combination of both Indian and Persian-style cooking. I had read about Parsi food while reading other food blogs over the past few years, but it wasn't until I came across the wonderful book, My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking by Niloufer Ichaporia King, that I became tremendously intrigued and decided to write a post about it. Her story and her Parsi recipes have totally won me over. Plus, I am passionate about all things Iranian, even if it's a thousand years removed!

On a more personal note, one day, a couple of years before I was born, my mother met a young Zartoshti couple with two adorable little girls during a sizdah bedar outing. One of the girls' names was Azita, and that was the first time my mother had heard that name. She decided she was going to name her next baby girl Azita. It took her months to persuade my father, who had a very uncommon name in mind. I am grateful that my mother met that family before I was born and that she didn't waver under pressure.

This recipe is adapted from Niloufer Ichaporia King's My Bombay Kitchen. I tweaked the recipe a little to my liking by reducing the amount of pepper and fresh ginger by almost half and substituting the optional fresh mint with parsley. This recipe can be made with ground chicken as well.

Parsi-Style Turkey Burger

Ingredients:
Serves 4

1 pound skinless, boneless ground turkey
3 green onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon of fresh ginger, minced
2 green chilies, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 large egg
Salt to taste
Vegetable oil

Method:

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine ground turkey, green onions, cilantro, parsley, green chiles, egg, and salt to taste. Mix all ingredients thoroughly by hand.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Take a handful of the turkey mixture and form into a patty. Place the patty in the skillet and fry until brown on both sides.

Serve on a bun with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle.

Here are some Parsi food links that you might find useful:

Parsi Pakoras from The Traveler's Lunchbox
Parsi Tomato Chutney from The Wednesday Chef
Ravo (Parsi Semolina Pudding) from Fork Spoon Knife
Veg Dhansak - A Parsi Traditional Recipe from Veg Recipes of India

Enjoy!

Ghalieh Mahi - Southern Iranian Spicy Fish & Herb Stew

This is my first recipe post after Nowruz, and I can't think of a more fitting dish to share than the ghalieh mahi, the beloved fish stew of my home region of southern Iran. This dish isn't just delicious, it's deeply nostalgic. The aroma of freshly chopped cilantro, fenugreek, and garlic simmering in a spicy tamarind sauce with tender, firm pieces of fish takes me back to childhood. 

A few weeks into the spring season, I am reminded of Khuzestan's fleeting but perfect season, fields dotted with red laleh (tulips), shaghayegh (red poppies), and wildflowers covering the hillsides. Most years, relatives and family would visit us for the Nowruz holidays. My parents, both very sociable, loved welcoming people into our home. During those busy days, my mother's cooking was more delicious than ever, or at least that's how I remember it.

There are different variations of قلیه ماهی ghalieh mahi, but the main ingredients are fresh گشنیز geshniz (cilantro) and شنبلیله shanbalileh (fenugreek). If you can't find fresh fenugreek, don't skip it; it's essential to the dish. Dried fenugreek is available in Persian markets, and fresh fenugreek can often be found at Indian grocery stores. Tamarind pulp is another defining ingredient, giving the stew its tang. I recommend buying packaged pulp, soaking it in hot water, and removing the seeds and fibers by hand rather than using ready-made paste. 

The choice of fish matters too. Traditionally, it's made with southern Iranian varieties like sangsar, hamoor, shoorideh, but any firm white fish without small bones works beautifully. It just needs to hold its shape as it simmers. For me, ghalieh mahi is at its best when heavy on the garlic, with enough red pepper to add real heat. In the recipe below, I've listed the amount I typically use, but I encourage you to adjust the garlic, chili, and tamarind to your own taste.

Ghalieh Mahi - Southern Iranian Spicy Fish & Herb Stew

Ingredients
Serves 4-6

-2 pounds fish fillet (salmon, snapper, tilapia, halibut, cod) or any fish of your choice, cut into small pieces
-3 cups fresh cilantro, finely chopped
-1 cup fresh fenugreek, finely chopped or 2 tablespoons dried fenugreek
-7 garlic cloves, finely minced
-2 medium onions, finely diced
-6-ounce tamarind pulp with seeds or 2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate 
-1 teaspoon red pepper powder (adjust to taste)
-1 teaspoon turmeric powder
-2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
-Salt and pepper to taste
-6 tablespoons vegetable oil or olive oil

Method

1. Place the tamarind in a small bowl, cover with 1-2 cups of hot water, and let it soak for about 20 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze and separate the pulp from the seeds and fibers, then strain through a sieve. Set aside.
2. In a bowl, mix the flour with 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon of red pepper. Coat the fish with the flour-turmeric mixture and let rest for 15-20 minutes. Shake off any excess flour before frying.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Gently saute the fish on all sides until lightly golden. Set aside.
4. In a large pan, heat the remaining oil. Sauté the onions over medium heat until translucent. Add 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric and the minced garlic, then cook for an additional 2-3 minutes over medium-low heat.
5. Stir in the cilantro and fenugreek, and saute with the onion and garlic for about 10 minutes.
6. Pour in the tamarind liquid and gently simmer over medium-low heat for 15-20 minutes, until all the flavors have come together.
7. Carefully place the fish pieces into the stew. season with additional salt, pepper, and red pepper to taste. Add a little more hot water to the stew if the stew is too thick. Cover and cook for another 15 minutes on low heat without stirring. 

Serve hot with basmati rice.

Enjoy!

Khoresh-e Bamieh-o-Bademjan - Eggplant and Okra Stew

This stew is a perfect combination of fresh okra and tender eggplant simmering in a luscious tomato sauce along with browned lamb cubes. Even if you're not too fond of okra, this delicious khoresh would likely change your mind. There's something magical about the combination of eggplant, okra, tomatoes, and lime juice. خورش بامیه و بادمجان Eggplant & Okra stew could also be made with غوره ghooreh (unripe grapes) if available where you live. The use of freshly squeezed lime juice, abghooreh (verjuice), or limoo amani (dried lemon) is key in Iranian cooking. The acidity of these ingredients definitely enhances the flavor of most dishes.

Eggplant is widely used in Persian cuisine; for instance, some popular dishes include khoresh bademjan, borani bademjan,  and kashke-bademjan. Whereas okra, on the other hand, is mostly sauteed and cooked in khoresh bamieh, a popular southern dish. In our home, my mother always made khoresh bamieh with tamarind sauce, and the taste was so incredibly amazing that I haven't tried to change my mother's recipe and use any other sauce instead. However, since I'm adding eggplant to this dish, I'll use a couple of tablespoons of tomato paste and a large tomato as a base with the addition of lime juice.

While preparing the ingredients, remember not to cut into the okra and to gently trim the top, but leave the top cap and the bottom intact, since this would prevent the stew from becoming slimy. Also, add the lime juice to the stew before adding the okra.

Khoresh-e Bamieh-o-Bademjan - Eggplant and Okra Stew

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

1 1/2 pound meat (lamb or beef), washed, trimmed, and cubed
8 small-sized eggplant, peeled, leave whole or cut in half
1 pound of okra, wash and trim the top
1-2 large tomatoes, skin removed and finely diced
2 large onions, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2-3 freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon turmeric
A pinch of red pepper 
Salt and pepper to taste
Oil

Method:

1. Place peeled eggplant in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and let it drain for a couple of hours before cooking.
2. Heat 1/2 a cup of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and fry the eggplants until golden brown. Remove fried eggplant and place on a paper towel.
3. In the same skillet, fry okra in 2-3 tablespoons of oil on medium heat until lightly browned. Set aside.
4. In a large stew pot, saute the chopped onions on medium-high heat until golden brown. Add a teaspoon of turmeric powder. Stir well, add the minced garlic, and saute for another few minutes.
5. Add the meat, salt, and pepper, and brown the meat on all sides.
6. Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato paste, and enough water to cover the meat by a couple of inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and cook for an hour on medium-low heat or until the meat is tender.
7. Add the lime juice to the stew, stir, and gently place the fried eggplant and okra in the pot. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper, and lime juice. Add a little more water if necessary. Cover and simmer for another 30-40 minutes on low heat.

To serve, gently spoon the stew into a large serving bowl. Serve hot with rice, salad shirazi, and mast o khiar.

Enjoy!

Morgh-e Torsh - Sour Chicken Stew with Fresh Herbs and Yellow Split Peas

I've been wanting to make مرغ ترش (morgh-e torsh) for quite some time, but I've somehow never gotten around to it. Recently, I received a very kind email from a reader requesting this recipe, along with a couple of other dishes from the northern province of Gilan, which inspired me to write a post about it. 

This dish is a relatively easy dish to prepare, yet the flavor is truly exceptional; each bite is rich, vibrant, and satisfying. The cuisine of Shomal (northern Iran) has a distinctive character, shaped by its unique local herbs and vegetables that are hard to find anywhere else. 

Northern Iran is also known for its lush rice fields, scenic tea plantations, and caviar from the Caspian Sea  (Darya-ye Khazar). 

This morgh-e torsh recipe was given to me by a very dear friend. My wonderful friend Maryam is from Rasht and now lives in Toronto with her loving family. I met Maryam in college here in New York, and we instantly became friends. We spent so much time together, laughing, sharing stories, and occasionally complaining about homesickness. 

After graduation, she moved away. Although we've lost touch briefly from time to time, over the years we have remained lifelong friends. Thanks to Maryam, I'm able to share this amazing Gilani recipe with you.

I made a couple of minor adjustments to the recipe. Maryam's original recipe calls for one whole chicken, but I used about two pounds of boneless, skinless chicken breasts instead, cut into small pieces. The second change was the addition of turmeric. I simply couldn't resist adding a pinch of turmeric powder while sauteing the chicken. 

Sour Chicken Stew with Fresh Herbs and Yellow Split Peas
Morgh-e Torsh

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-1 whole chicken, cut into pieces
-1/2 cup yellow split peas
-2 bunches of coriander, finely chopped
-1 bunch of parsley, finely chopped
-1 bunch of fresh mint, finely chopped
-1 large onion, peeled and diced
-4-5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
-Juice of  1-2  narenj (Seville orange/bitter orange) or juice of 1-2 lemon/lime (adjust to taste)
Salt and pepper to taste
Water
Oil

Method:

1. Wash and clean all the fresh vegetables, remove the stems, and chop them finely.
2. In a skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil over medium heat. Sauté the chopped onion and minced garlic until fragrant. Add the chopped herbs and cook until soft and tender.
3. Cook the yellow split peas in 2 cups of water with a dash of salt for about 30 minutes or until they become soft. Discard the water.
4. Lightly fry the chicken pieces in a couple of tablespoons of oil in a frying pan on medium heat until they are no longer pink. Add salt and pepper to taste. As I mentioned, I added a pinch of turmeric at this stage.
5. In a large saucepan, combine the sauteed herb mixture, cooked chicken, and yellow split peas. Add enough water to cover the ingredients. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, season with salt and pepper, and add the juice of Seville orange or lemon/lime juice to your taste. Cover and simmer on medium-low heat for about 1 hour until all the flavors come together, stirring occasionally. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Transfer the stew to a large serving bowl. Serve with kateh or polow, zeytoon parvardeh, and pickled garlic.
For a complete Gilani lunch or dinner, consider adding Mirza Ghasemi to the menu as a side dish.
 
Enjoy!

Sholeh Maash - Persian Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Hearty Soup

Ever since I saw the recipe for shole maash online in the 19th-century Qajar Women Cookbook, I have been thinking about giving it a try. شله ماش  Sholeh Maash (mung beans with kohlrabi) makes a tasty and nutritious autumn soup. This recipe, like the others in the book, consists of a brief description of what the necessary ingredients are, and the word yek-meghdar (some) is frequently used to describe the amount needed for each ingredient. Persian cuisine is forgiving in terms of measurements, and when you ask a grandmother for a recipe, the answer is basically a list of the ingredients with yek-kami (a little bit) of this and yek-meghdar (some) of that, and that's how I, along with many other Iranians, learned to cook. I learned that you can use a little less or a little more of most ingredients in a recipe, depending on your taste and preferences. A few months into blogging, I bought a food scale to measure the ingredients by weight, but I have rarely used it.

Sholeh maash is not a thin and watery soup. It's a rather rich soup that can be served as a main dish. The original recipe calls for meat, but I've decided that it is substantial enough without the addition of any lamb or beef.

Sholeh Maash - Persian Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Hearty Soup

Ingredients:
Serves 6

1 1/2  cups green mung beans, rinse 2-3 times
1/2 cup rice, rinse well
3-4 medium-sized kohlrabi, peel and cut into small cubes, leave one cubed kohlrabi for the topping
1 large bunch of fresh tareh or scallions (green parts only), washed and chopped
1 small bunch of fresh tarragon, stems removed and chopped
Water
Salt and pepper to taste
2 large onions, thinly sliced
2-3 garlic cloves, diced
1/3 teaspoon turmeric
1/3 teaspoon red pepper *optional
1/3 teaspoon cumin *optional
Oil

Method:

1. Place the beans and the rice in a large pot, add 6 cups of water, and bring to a boil on medium-high heat.
2. Add the small pieces of kohlrabi, salt, pepper, cover, and cook for 45 minutes on low heat.
3. Periodically check to see if you need to add more water to the soup.
4. Add the chopped vegetables, taste and adjust the seasoning, add more hot water if needed, and let it simmer for another 15 minutes for the flavors to blend in.
5. In the meantime, fry the sliced onions in 3-4 tablespoons of hot vegetable oil in a skillet until golden brown. Add the turmeric powder and the minced garlic to the oil, stir, and saute further for another five minutes.
6. Add a large tablespoon of the fried onion to the soup and gently mix well.
7. Lightly fry the cubed kohlrabi in 2-3 tablespoons of hot vegetable oil until soft and golden on medium heat. Add a pinch of salt, turmeric, cumin, and red pepper and stir well.

To serve, ladle the soup into a soup bowl, top with the fried onions and kohlrabi. Serve hot with bread and yogurt.

Enjoy!

Kabab Koobideh - Persian Grilled Ground Lamb On Skewers

I just couldn't let my third summer of blogging pass by without posting a recipe for the internationally-known Iranian dish: kabab koobideh/kabob kubide. In addition to this popular kabab, there's also the well-known kabab barg (grilled skewered lamb tenderloin) and the delectable joojeh kabab (grilled chicken), as well as many other types of kababs, which are served with chelow, the parboiled and steamed rice.

In our home, grilling has become one of the rituals and pleasures of the summer, but usually by mid-October, the gas grill gets cleaned, covered, and put away for the rest of the year until the trees bloom once again. On the other hand, growing up in Iran, it was always grilling season! Kababs were made all year-round, regardless of the weather conditions. Our barbecue grill was an old, overused but sturdy rectangular manghal (portable charcoal grill) left in the faraway corner of the yard year-round. But on kabab days, in a matter of minutes, my mother would bring the manghal to the center of the yard, place some zoghal (wood charcoal) in it, and start the fire. When the coals looked hot and glowing, she would place the kabab skewers on the fire. Kababs, like any other meal, were made solely by my mother from start to finish. She had the required ease and speed in preparing the meat, fanning the charcoal using a bad-bezan (straw hand fan), and at the same time frequently turning the skewers over so the meat wouldn't fall off. Then the cooked kababs and grilled tomatoes would be placed in between layers of fresh taftoon (flat bread) and immediately taken to the dining room table, where the aromatic rice, a small bowl of sumac, fresh basil leaves, quartered raw onions, yogurt, and a pitcher of ice-cold doogh (yogurt drink) were already placed.

Traditionally, کباب کوبیده koobideh is made with ground lamb. However, ground lean beef or a combination of the two could be used too. This is the kind of kabab that needs meat with some fat on it. Koobideh is basically made with very few ingredients, consisting of ground meat, grated onion, salt, and pepper. Adding a teaspoon of sumac, turmeric, saffron, or any other ingredient is totally optional and depends on one's individual tastes and preferences. I'm not a big fan of using (joosh-e shirin) baking soda in cooking, but a few times I have taken my friend's advice and added a teaspoon of baking soda to tenderize the meat mixture, and I liked the result. I like to buy the meat on the same day that I'm grilling, but if you decide to do your shopping a day in advance, it's better to prepare the mixture and keep it in the refrigerator. Kababs are always served with grilled tomatoes, but grilling other vegetables such as onions, hot green peppers or corn is optional. Serving this dish with raw eggs on top, as was common in the past, is no longer advisable due to health reasons.

Kabab Koobideh - Persian Grilled Ground Lamb On Skewers

Ingredients:
 Serving: 8 skewers

2 pounds finely ground lamb (grind it 2-3 times)
1 large onion, grated, and squeeze out the juice
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1 teaspoon black pepper or to taste

For Grilled Vegetables:

4 medium firm and ripe tomatoes, cut in half
2 medium onions, quartered (optional)
8 hot green peppers (optional)

 Method:

1. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix well with your hands until the mixture becomes well blended and sticky. Set aside at room temperature for at least an hour.
2. Leave a bowl of water next to you on the counter for dipping your hands to prevent stickiness while placing the lamb on the skewers.
3. You may divide the ground lamb into equal portions in advance or take a handful and shape it into an oval and place it on a flat and long metal skewer, and press it onto the skewer, making sure that both ends are sticking as well. The thickness and the length of the kababs depend on your preferences. When all the skewers are done, set aside for at least half an hour.
4. Turn on the gas grill and make sure it's very hot, and then one by one, place the skewers on the grill. Turn each skewer over quickly and continue to do so until the lamb is browned on both sides and well-cooked.
5. Place the vegetables directly on the hot grill, or place them on the thin metal or wooden skewers and grill over the flame.

Set the table in advance, place all the necessary condiments you would need for the meal, serve the rice on a platter, and then bring the kabab platter to the table with the grilled vegetables.

Enjoy!

Dami Baghali -Turmeric Rice With Yellow Fava Beans and Caramelized Onions

دمی باقالی/باقلا Dami baghali is a combination of rice and dried yellow fava beans cooked together slowly over low heat. The result is a flavorful rice and beans dish that is best served with a bowl of mast-o-khiar, salad Shirazi or torshi (my favorite). Nothing beats having this delicious home-cooked meal on a summer day with your family. Dami baghali is one of my husband's favorite dishes and he is usually the one who buys the fava beans for this dish or anything that resembles them! Not too long ago though he mistakenly bought lupini beans instead of fava beans from an Italian market. I still haven't figured out what to do with all these beans and how to cook them.

There are different recipes for this rice and beans dish, and the difference basically depends on one's tastes and preferences. Some would add a tablespoon of tomato paste or fresh chopped tomatoes. Some serve it with fried eggs (sunny side up), and some people prefer it hot. It may also be served with lamb shanks. The following recipe is how I like to make and serve dami baghali in our home, simple with no meat and with caramelized onions on top. I also like to use equal portions of rice and fava beans. However, it is more common to use anywhere from 1/2 cup to two cups more rice than fava beans. Instead of increasing the amount of rice, you may reduce the fava beans to 1 1/2 cups in this recipe if you like.

Dami Baghali -Turmeric Rice With Yellow Fava Beans and Caramelized Onions

Ingredients

Serves 4

1 1/2 cups dried yellow skinless fava beans
2 cups white long-grain rice
2 large yellow onions, one onion diced finely, one sliced thinly
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
A pinch of red pepper (optional)
Salt to taste
Vegetable oil or olive oil



Method:

1. Rinse and soak the beans in 4 cups of cool water for a couple of hours. Drain. 
2. Rinse the rice with cool water and soak it in 4 cups of water with 2 tablespoons of salt for about an hour before cooking. Drain.
3. Heat about 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large heavy-bottom pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onions, saute until lightly golden brown. Add turmeric, stir well. Add the beans, cumin, and red pepper. Cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Stirring intermittently.
4. Add the rice to the pot and pour enough water to cover the rice and the beans about an inch above the rice. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Cover the lid with a clean kitchen towel to absorb the moisture. Cover the pot and cook for about 45-50 minutes on low heat.
5. In the meantime, saute the remaining sliced onions in 3 tablespoons of olive oil. When the onions become soft and transparent, reduce the heat to low and let them caramelize slowly.

Serve rice on a platter, spoon the caramelized onions over top, and serve with mast-o-khiar, salad shirazi or torshi.

***

It would be nice to have love reciprocated 

one sided love is trouble

if Majnun's heart was filled with maddening love

Layli's heart was brimming with more intense love

~Poem by:  Baba Taher

Enjoy!