Dolmeh Barg-e Kalam - Persian Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

دلمه برگ کلم - Dolmeh barg-e kalam (stuffed cabbage leaves) is a delicious variation of the well-loved dolmeh (stuffed vegetable) family popular across Iran and neighboring regions. This dish was a staple in our home growing up, and one of my mother's personal favorites. 

I had heard my mother's story of a Nowruz (Persian New Year) long ago, when she was young. She single-handedly stuffed nearly 100 cabbage leaves with a fragrant mixture of herbs, rice, meat, and a few sweet raisins. That day, her dolmeh-ye kalam became legendary, the most exquisite and memorable version she ever made, enjoyed by family, distant relatives, and friends who visited during the Nowruz holiday.

To achieve the best results in preparing Persian meals, beyond basic culinary skills, you need a genuine appreciation for the creativity, wisdom, care, and effort that go into most Iranian dishes. Along with skills and enthusiasm, a touch of patience is essential. Persian food takes time, but don't let that discourage you. In Persian cooking, every ingredient counts and every step matters. 

For those who are short on time or are not as passionate about cooking, there are plenty of classic Persian dishes that are simple, satisfying, and perfect for any time of the day, such as kookoo sibzamini, kookoo sabzi, borani esfenaj, kotlet, or the comforting combinations of noon o panir o gerdoo (bread, cheese, and walnuts) or noon o mast (bread and yogurt).

While the tasty dolmeh-ye barg kalam is simmering away in its rich tomato-based sauce on the stove, I often think about those before us, the generations who prepared meals for their families centuries ago,  cooking over wood fires when water could only be reached through قنات - qanat (underground aqueducts), چاه آب  (wells), or چشمه (springs). Somehow, they managed to preserve their culinary traditions and pass them on, verbally and lovingly, to the next generation, keeping alive the art of feeding both body and soul. 

I feel strongly about maintaining the authenticity of our recipes as much as possible, and about not letting them be forgotten or overlooked, amid our hectic and hurried lifestyles.  

I leave you with this poem by Saadi Shirazi:

ابر و باد و مه و خورشید و فلک در کارند              تا تو نانی به کف آری و به غفلت نخوری

سعدی شیرازی ~

Clouds, wind, mist, the sun, and the universe are all at work so that you may earn your daily bread and not consume it in oblivion.

This dolmeh recipe is known for its delicate sweet-sour flavor. Depending on your taste, you can adjust the amount of sugar or lemon juice (or vinegar) to your liking. I personally prefer mine on the tangy side, so I skip the sugar. If you like to add raisins to the filling, they bring just the right amount of natural sweetness, a much healthier alternative to sugar. You can even mix equal parts barberries and raisins to achieve that beautiful balance of sweet-sour flavors. 

One final note: my mother's original recipe did not include any tomato sauce - that's just my own little addition, a nod to the modern palate and an ode to tomato.

Dolmeh Barg-e Kalam - Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

Ingredients
Serves 6

-1 large cabbage, washed, center core removed

For filling:

-2/3 pound lean ground beef
-1/2 cup long-grain rice, rinsed
-1/2 cup yellow split peas, rinsed
-1 1/2 cups of chopped fresh herbs (a combination of flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, basil, tarragon, mint) washed, hard stems removed
-1/4 - 1/2 cup raisins (optional)
-1/4 - 1/2 cup barberries (optional)
-1 large yellow onion, chopped
-2 large garlic cloves, minced
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-A pinch of cumin
-2 tablespoons liquid saffron
-Salt and pepper

For the Sauce:

-2 tablespoons tomato paste
-1 medium onion, thinly sliced
-Juice of a large lemon/lime or a tablespoon of vinegar
-1 tablespoon powdered sugar (optional)
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Vegetable oil/olive oil

Method:

1. In a large pot, bring 6-8 cups of water to a boil over high heat, add a tablespoon of salt, then gently add the head of cabbage to the boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes. Then drain. Carefully separate the cabbage leaves, and cut out the hard rib in each leaf. Set aside. 
2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion, and saute until light golden brown. Add the minced garlic and the turmeric powder, stirring and cooking for a few more minutes.
3. Add the ground beef, along with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the meat is fully browned. Set aside.
4. In a medium pot, combine the rice and the yellow split peas, and add enough water to cover the rice by an inch. Stir in a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of oil. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat, partially cover to let the steam escape, and cook until the water is fully absorbed. Set aside.
5.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the meat mixture, rice, peas, chopped herbs, cumin, and saffron. Mix well. 
6. In a large pan, saute the sliced onion in 3 tablespoons of olive oil until translucent, add a tablespoon of tomato paste, and cook for 2-3 minutes until it loses its raw taste. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add 3 cups of water and bring to a gentle simmer. Let the sauce thicken slightly.
7. While the sauce simmers, place a small scoop of the mixture into the center of each cabbage leaf. Fold in the bottom, sides, and roll up tightly to form a neat wrap.
8. Arrange the stuffed cabbage rolls, seam-side down, next to each other in a large pot. Pour the tomato sauce over the dolmeh, cover, and cook on medium-low heat for 1 hour. In the last 10-15 minutes of cooking, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar and just a sprinkle of sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To serve: arrange the dolmeh on a platter and serve warm with mast-o-khiar and sabzi khordan.

At the beach with family!

Enjoy!