Ash-e Goje Farangi with Koofteh Ghelgheli - Hearty Iranian Tomato Soup with Tiny Meatballs

Early this summer, we planted two rows of different types of tomatoes in our vegetable garden. We are so pleased with the results that we are now planning to only plant tomatoes next summer, along with some basil. Tomatoes are easy to grow and are very nutritious. They turn out incredibly tasty, and harvesting them is truly gratifying. Many Iranian recipes call for tomatoes, tomato sauce, or paste. These recipes include the dizi, khoresh gheymeh, khoresh bademjan, and estamboli polo, and they are usually served with a side of salad shirazi: a simple salad with tomatoes, cucumber, and onion. A ripe and juicy tomato wedge wrapped up in a warm lavash is also a great snack on any given day.

As we are nearing the end of summer, there's still time to take in the sunshine, walk on the beach, and enjoy the abundance of fresh summer produce. With tomatoes still in season, it's time to make آش گوجه فرنگی Ash-e goje farangi (tomato soup). This is a very flavorful soup that can be had all year round, but is especially delicious as a late summer soup. Every region of Iran has its own version of ash-e goje farangi. They may use different kinds of herbs or spices, add beans, or peas. The Khuzestani (southern-style) آش تماته ash-e tamate is hot and spicy.

Ingredients

Serves 6

-5 large tomatoes, peeled, chopped
-1/2 cup basmati rice, rinsed
-1 large onion, chopped
-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
-1 bunch parsley, chopped
-1 bunch chives or scallions, chopped
-A handful of basil, roughly chopped
-1 tablespoon tomato paste
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-A pinch of red pepper
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Vegetable oil/olive oil
-Juice of 1 lime or 1-2 tablespoons abghooreh (sour grape juice)

For کوفته قلقلی Koofteh Ghelgheli - Meatballs

-1/2 pound ground beef or lamb
-1 small onion, grated
-1/2 teaspoon salt
-1/4 teaspoon pepper

Method:

1. In a bowl, combine beef, onion, salt, and pepper, and shape into mini meatballs. Place on a large plate and set aside.
2. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Cut an "x" in the bottom of each tomato with a sharp knife. Place the tomatoes in the boiling water and cook for a minute or two. Remove from the pot, allow to cool, and peel the skins. Chop or grate the tomatoes on a box grater. Remove the seeds if you prefer.
3. Add 3 tablespoons of oil to a pot, saute chopped onions over medium-high heat until the onions become translucent. Add turmeric, stir, and add the chopped garlic. Sauté for a couple of minutes.
4. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2-3 minutes before adding the tomatoes. Cook for 5 minutes.
5. Add the rice, parsley, scallion, basil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and a pinch of red pepper.
6. Add six cups of water, stir, bring to a boil, add the meatballs, reduce the heat, cover and cook over low heat for 45-50 minutes. Periodically, stir the soup and add a little water if needed.
7. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Add lime juice/verjuice just before serving.

Serve hot with fresh herbs and warm bread.

Note:

For a vegetarian version of this soup, you can make it without the meatballs.
For a lighter soup, you can reduce the amount of rice to 1/4 cup.
You can drizzle نعنا داغ nana dagh (fried dried mint) on top.

Enjoy!

Ash-e Jo - Barley Soup with Spinach and Cilantro: A Safavid Era Recipe

I was gifted an Iranian cookbook titled آشپزی دوره صفوی - Ashpazi Doreh-ye Safavid (Cooking during the Safavid Dynasty). This cookbook is a compilation of two separate books (Karnameh and Madat-al-Hayat) about cooking and recipes from the era of Shah Ismail I ( 1501-1524) and Shah Abbas I (1588-1629). According to the author, Iraj Afshar, many of the recipes in this book were dishes served at the Safavid royal court. The working-class people could barely afford most of these extravagant, elaborate, and time-consuming meals. I suspect that this book would appeal to those interested in the history of Iranian cuisine. While many of the recipes are not easy to read or easy to make, the instructions are vague, the servings are large, and the correct measurement of ingredients is left to your imagination, it's wonderful to have a glimpse into the type of food people used to eat long ago.

On a personal note, I am very passionate about recreating old and forgotten recipes and have a deep desire to bring them back to life. I decided to try out one of the recipes, and among the many recipes listed in the book, I came across a simple vegetarian barley soup with spinach and cilantro. I would think a warm bowl of barley soup would have appealed to the Safavid royal court as well as the working-class people, especially in the cold days of winter. I have written two other barley recipes in the past, Soup-e Jo and Ash-e Jo, and this آش جو ash-e jo recipe would be a great addition to my barley recipes. I used this brief and loose ash recipe with vague directions and converted it into a usable recipe, and I'm delighted to share it with you all. I tried to stay true to the original recipe and keep it as authentic as possible while coming up with my own measurements and proportions. Adding lime juice, butter/olive oil to the ash is simply a personal preference, and you may skip it if you like.

Ash-e Jo - Barley Soup with Spinach and Cilantro

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-1 cup barley
-1 cup chopped cilantro
-1 cup chopped spinach
-A handful of almonds
-Salt and pepper
-Freshly squeezed lime juice (optional)
-Butter/olive oil *optional

Method:

1. Place the raw almonds in a small bowl, cover with boiling water, let sit for a few minutes, remove the skins, and let the almonds dry completely. You can use a food processor or a mortar and pestle to grind the almonds. Set aside.
2. Rinse barley under cool running water, drain, and place in a saucepan. Cover the barley with a couple of inches of water, bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover partially and simmer for 45 minutes or until tender.
3. Add the chopped cilantro, spinach, and ground almonds. Add more water if needed. Simmer on low heat for another 10-15 minutes.
4. Add 1-2 tablespoons of butter or olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, stir well, taste, and adjust the seasoning.

Serve the ash in individual soup bowls and drizzle each serving with a generous squeeze of lime juice.

Enjoy!

Ash-e Anar - Persian Pomegranate Soup with Fresh Herbs and Mini Meatballs

I've let many winters and pomegranate seasons go by without writing about آش انار ash-e anar. But today, as I watch the icy snowflakes hit the windows and pile up all around the house, I can't think of a better reason to post a recipe for this hearty and tasty ash-e anar. 

The tradition of making warm ash on cold days, or when you're feeling under the weather and need a little comfort, was passed down to me by my mother. I make ash reshteh all the time, and chances are, if you open my refrigerator, you'll find a bowl tucked in somewhere. And after all these years living in America, it's only recently that I've begun to find large, ruby-red, juicy pomegranates at the markets nearby, just the kind I grew up with. 

You can make this soup with brown or green lentils if you prefer them to yellow split peas. If you choose to use لپه lapeh (yellow split peas), I would recommend boiling them for 7-10 minutes on medium heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, then draining them before adding to the stew. When making the کوفته قلقلی (koofteh ghelgheli, mini meatballs), try to shape them as tiny as possible, small enough to scoop up easily with a tablespoon. 

If you find the soup a little too sour for your taste, add a touch of sugar to balance the flavors. This recipe serves 6-8 people, but you can easily cut it in half for a smaller batch. And don't skip the نعنا داغ (nana dagh), the fried mint and oil mixture.

Ash-e Anar - Pomegranate Soup

Ingredients
Serves 6-8

-1 pound ground meat (lamb, beef, or turkey)
-1 cup rice, rinsed and drained
-1/2 cup yellow split peas, rinsed
-1 large onion, chopped
-2-3 cloves of garlic, minced
-1 bunch parsley, stems removed, finely chopped
-1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
-1 bunch scallion, green parts only, finely chopped
-2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves
-1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
-1/2 cup pomegranate molasses (add  more to taste)
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric Powder
-Salt and pepper to taste
-2 tablespoons dried mint
-2-3 tablespoons pomegranate seeds, for garnish
-Vegetable oil or olive oil


Method:

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the yellow split peas and 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam from the surface. Reduce the heat, and cook for about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden brown. Add the garlic, and saute for 2-3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder, stir well.
3. Add the rice, split peas, and 8 cups of water to the pot. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes with the lid slightly ajar, stirring occasionally. 
4. In the meantime, combine the meat with 2-3 tablespoons of the chopped vegetables, 1/4 teaspoon turmeric, salt, and pepper. Mix well. Form the meat mixture into tiny meatballs.
5. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet over medium heat and fry the meatballs until brown on all sides. Set aside.
6. Add the meatballs, pomegranate molasses, remaining chopped herbs, salt, and pepper to the pot. Cover and simmer on low heat for another 30-40 minutes.
7. In a small pan, heat 2-3 tablespoons of oil over medium heat, add a pinch of turmeric and 2 tablespoons of dried mint, stir, and remove from heat. 

ladle the ash into a large serving bowl. Drizzle with nana dagh and garnish with pomegranate seeds, if desired.  Serve with warm bread.

Enjoy!

Ash-e Haft Daneh - Persian Seven Bean Hearty Soup - Mehregan Festival Recipe

Mehregan/Mehr is an ancient Iranian festival celebrating the start of the beautiful fall season. With its vibrant foliage, crisp days, and harvesting of crops, مهرگان (Mehregan) is traditionally celebrated a few days after the first day of fall (Autumnal Equinox) on the 10th day of  Mehr (the seventh month of the Iranian calendar). In the past, festivities would last for several days. Opinions about the exact date of Mehregan may differ since the historical records show that the date has been changed a few times throughout history. The wordمهر "Mehr" in Mehregan means 'sun, kindness, love, and friendship' in Persian. جشن مهرگان Jashn-e Mehregan is attributed to Mithra/Mehr, the goddess of the sun and brightness, and also the angelic divinity of friendship, justice, and oath, dating back to the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism. One of the most valuable lessons of Prophet Zartosht (Zoroaster), that is still cherished today, is his teachings of good thoughts, good words, and good deeds.

Mithra Slaying the Bull, Metropolitan Museum of Art

It's also believed that Mehregan marks the triumph of Kaveh Ahangar, the blacksmith who fought the tyrant king Zahak and defeated him, saving the people from his brutal reign, which resulted in the crowning of Fereydun as king in the epic Shahnameh (Book of Kings), written by the great Persian poet Ferdowsi. Therefore, Mehregan is also considered a day when good destroys evil, a common thread in many old Iranian fables.

 Freydun defeats Zahak

Growing up, my family celebrated Nowruz (Persian New Year) and Yalda (the longest night) every year more grandly than the year before. However, I don't have any recollection of any Mehregan celebrations. I can't think of a particular reason why we didn't celebrate Mehregan at home, other than perhaps the timing of it being inconvenient for my parents. The first day of fall is the first day of school in Iran. My guess is that for my parents, having to deal with a bunch of kids and getting each of us ready for school must have been overwhelming enough around that time of year! And so when the dust was settled, Mehregan had come and gone. Now, more than ever, I'm passionate about paying a long overdue ode to this centuries-old Iranian festival for the purpose of introducing it to my children as well as others and preserving it for future generations. Plus, we can always use a little more mehr, light and good cheer in our lives. This festival also serves as a necessary reminder that, similar to how the struggles and efforts of Kaveh Ahangar came to fruition beautifully, we, too, can overcome our personal challenges and obstacles.

Food is an integral part of most celebrations, and Mehregan is no exception. On this date, fresh fruits such as grapes, pomegranate, apples, quince, figs, and persimmon were served along with an assortment of nuts, dried fruits, sweets, and rosewater. In my research for a Mehregan main dish, I came across the آش هفت غله - Ash-e Haft Daneh (seven bean soup) in a few written records of a typical Mehregan feast. And in my quest for preserving traditions, I decided to recreate this recipe, which was perhaps once served on our ancestral sofreh (spread).

I chose to call it a seven-bean soup, but this is more than just a soup, and it's more than just beans.
آش هفت دانه - Ash-e haft daneh is a combination of beans, seeds, whole wheat, and some vegetables. The main ingredients in the original recipe were listed as wheat, barley, rice, chickpeas, lentils, mung beans, and millet. There are many different variations of this traditional ash (stew/soup). You can make this soup with lamb shank or lamb/beef stock and add vegetables such as parsley, cilantro, chives/leeks, spinach, and dill. However, since this is a hearty and flavor-packed soup, I didn't think adding any kind of meat was necessary. Also, it is not loaded with vegetables like ash-e reshteh, and it does not have noodles either. I replaced millet and mung beans with two other kinds of beans and used tomatoes for added flavor.

Ash-e Haft Daneh

Ingredients

Serves 8

-1/2 cup chickpeas
-1/2 cup pinto beans
-1/2 cup white beans
-1/2 cup lentils
-1/2 cup pearl barley
-1/2 cup bulgur
-1/3 cup rice
-2 large tomatoes, grated
-1 bunch parsley, chopped
-1 bunch chives or scallions/leeks, chopped
-1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
-1/2 teaspoon pepper, or to taste
-Juice of a lemon

For Topping:

Piaz Dagh:
-1 large onion, thinly sliced
-3 large garlic cloves, chopped
-1 tablespoon dried mint
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-Oil

-Liquid kashk (whey) or yogurt

Method:

1. Place the chickpeas, pinto beans, white beans, and barley in a large bowl, rinse, add a quart of water, and soak for six hours.
2. Drain and place in a large pot.
3. Rinse the rice, lentils, and bulgur and add to the pot.
4. Add water to cover by at least two inches, bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, cook for one hour over medium-low heat.
5. Add the grated tomatoes with their juices to the pot. 
6. Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the onions, saute for 20 minutes until golden, add the garlic and turmeric, and saute for another 2-3 minutes. Add the dried mint, saute for an additional minute or two. 
7. Add parsley, chives, and 1/2 of the sauteed onions to the pot. Add salt and pepper. Cover and cook for another 45-50 minutes on low heat or until the beans are all very tender. Add lemon juice toward the end of cooking. Add more water if needed and adjust the seasoning.

Ladle ash into a serving bowl and top with kashk and fried onion. Serve hot with warm bread and yogurt.

A group of Iranian food bloggers have prepared delicious recipes to celebrate the ancient Persian Festival of Mehregan. Please check out the following links:

Mehregan 2014 Round Up:

Ahu Eats: Badoom Sookhte Torsh
All Kinds of Yum: Jeweled Carrot Salad
Bottom of the Pot: Broccoli Koo Koo
Cafe Leilee: Northern Iranian Pomegranate Garlic and Chicken Stew
Coco in the Kitchen: Zeytoon Parvardeh
Della Cucina Povera: Ghormeh Sabzi
Family Spice: Khoreshteh Kadoo | Butternut Squash Stew
Fig & Quince: Festive Persian Noodle Rice & Roasted Chicken Stuffed with Yummies 
for Mehregan
Honest and Tasty: Loobia Polo | Beef and Green Bean Rice
Lab Noon: Adas Polo Risotto
Lucid Food: Sambuseh
Marjan Kamali: Persian Ice Cream with Rosewater and Saffron
My Caldron: Anaar-Daneh Mosamma | Pomegranate Stew
My Persian Kitchen: Keshmesh Polow | Persian Raisin Rice
Noghlemey: Parsi Dal Rice Pie
Parisa's Kitchen: Morasa Polow | Jeweled Rice
Sabzi: Ash-e Mast, Yogurt Soup with Meatballs
The saffron Tales: Khoresht-e Gheimeh
Simi's Kitchen: Lita Turshisi | Torshi-e Liteh | Tangy aubergine pickle
Spice Spoon: Khoresht-e-bademjaan
The Unmanly Chef: Baghali Polow ba Mahicheh 
ZoZoBaking: Masghati

روز مهر  و ماه مهر و جشن فرخ مهرگان 

مهر بفزا ای نگارماه چهر مهربان 

مهربانی کن به جشن مهرگان و روز مهر

مهربانی کن به روز مهر و جشن مهرگان  

  

مسعود سعد سلمان ~

Happy Mehr & Happy Mehregan!

Soup-e Jo - Persian Chicken Barley Soup

This healthy and delicious سوپ جو soup-e jo (barley soup) is made with chicken, sweet carrots, and a generous squeeze of fresh lemon juice. It's the perfect comfort food, nourishing, flavorful, and easy to make. I especially recommend it for college students living away from home who are tired of campus meals and unhealthy takeout. All you need is a working stove, a few simple ingredients, and a good dose of enthusiasm.

It's officially spring, but the pleasant weather hasn't quite arrived yet! For my first post of the new season, I had hoped to prepare a light dish with fresh vegetables, but I'm still waiting for that exhilarating moment when I can open all the windows and let the fresh air fill the house, and truly feel spring all around me. I can't wait to put back my outdoor birdhouses and wind chimes, which I had brought inside before the Sandy Storm last fall. Spring is such a fleeting season here in New York; it arrives late and disappears before you know it.

While I was growing up in the southern region of Iran, early spring meant beautiful weather and breathtaking landscapes covered in wildflowers. One of my favorite springtime memories goes back to یک روز بهاری (one spring day) when I was a seventh-grader in our small town of Masjed Soleiman in Khouzestan province.

 I remember watching a flock of wild parrots pass over our house early one morning. I didn't know where they were coming from or where they were headed, but my father, who loved birds and at one point kept nearly two hundred of them (and would have had more if my mother hadn't objected!), suggested we try to catch a few, possibly more, had suggested catching those parrots. Excited by the idea, I eagerly joined him.

The next morning, at the crack of dawn, I watched my father bring out an old mesh-wire cage and place it by a large open window. He tied a long string to the latch on the cage door, sprinkled some seeds inside, and left a small trail leading out. We waited patiently. Before long, a couple of parrots from the flock approached our house, and one of them followed the seed trail into the cage. My father gently pulled the string, and the door clicked shut. It was a thrilling moment, and our joy continued for the next few as we eventually captured five beautiful parrots.

Several days later, I came home from school, joyfully refilled the parrot's water bowl, and gave them more seeds. Things seemed calm in our household, and my mother appeared to be tolerating our little hunting adventure.. However, it turned out she had endured it for as long as she could. 

One day, while I was still at school, she took the cage out in the back of the house over the hills, opened the door, and released the wild parrots into the open sky. To my horror, when I came home, I found the cage empty on the lonely porch. I think I went through each stage of grief except the last one, acceptance, in the span of ten minutes before heading down to the kitchen, where I knew she would be.

 I don't remember exactly what I said; it's all a blur, but I remember what she told me: پرنده جاش تو قفس نیست "Birds don't belong in a cage." "Birds need to be free and to be able to go wherever they wish," she said. Through our heartfelt connection, I understood what she meant, and to this day, I am still learning the depth of that poignant lesson.

Soup-e Jo - Chicken Barley Soup 

Ingredients
Serves 6-8

-1 1/2 cups pearl barley, rinsed and soaked in cool water for an hour
-4 pieces of chicken (drumsticks or wings)
-1 1/2 cups shredded carrots
-1 large onion, peeled and quartered
-2 celery stalks, cut into chunks
-2 garlic cloves
-1/4 teaspoon turmeric
-2 bay leaves
-Salt and pepper to taste (I would suggest a freshly ground black pepper for this recipe)
-2-3 tablespoons of freshly squeezed lime/lemon juice
-Chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Method

1. Arrange the quartered onions at the bottom of a large stockpot. Add the chicken, celery, garlic, bay leaves, turmeric, salt, and pepper. Add enough water to cover all of the ingredients. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to medium-low. Cover, and cook on medium-low for about 45-50 minutes or until the chicken is fully cooked. 
2. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool. Strain the soup and set the broth aside. Separate the chicken from the bones and shred it into small pieces.
3. Place the soaked and drained barley in a large pot. Add the strained chicken broth and enough water to cover up to 3 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat, partially cover the pot, and simmer for 45 minutes.
4. Add the shredded chicken and the shredded carrots to the pot. Stir well, adding more hot water if needed. Cover and cook for another 40- 45 minutes over medium-low heat.
5. In the last 15 minutes of cooking, stir in the lemon juice, taste, and adjust the seasoning with additional salt and pepper.

Ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve with warm bread.

Enjoy!

Dizi - Traditional Iranian Lamb Chickpea Soup

دیزی Dizi, also known as abgousht, is a popular highlight of Persian cuisine. Traditionally, it was cooked in small stone crocks or metal pots. The history of abgoosht (or abgousht) dates back centuries, when it was made simply with lamb and chickpeas. With the introduction of New World ingredients such as potatoes and tomatoes, this modest meat-and-chickpea soup evolved into a more substantial and more flavorful meal. 

Cooking in clay/stone cookware is one of the oldest culinary methods in Iran, where the clay pot is placed over indirect heat or a slow fire for hours, allowing the ingredients to meld together. Because of its long cooking time and the need for a very hot stove, dizi was often purchased from specialty shops rather than prepared at home. In modern kitchens, the clay pot is now used mostly for serving rather than cooking. Still, this slow-simmered, humble, and deeply satisfying dish continues to nourish the body and soul.

Traditionally, it's served in two parts. First, the flavorful broth is strained into a large bowl or individual bowls and served. Then the remaining ingredients, lamb, potatoes, tomatoes, chickpeas, and beans are all mashed together using a goosht-koob (a traditional meat masher). This mixture is served on the side with raw onions, torshi (pickles),  sabzi khordan (fresh herbs), and plain yogurt. Noon sangak is an excellent choice of bread for this dish. Baked in a tanoor (tandoor) over a bed of hot pebbles, sangak's toasty flavor makes it a star of the meal as the stew itself. 

Savoring dizi is an experience of togetherness, bonding, and sharing. Whether you are sitting cross-legged on the floor in comfortable clothing around a sofreh (traditional tablecloth) or gathered at a dining table dressed in designer attire, the joy remains the same: indulging in a warm, comforting blend of flavors while enjoying conversation and creating memories. Every time I prepare abgoosht, I remember the scene from Ganj-e Gharoon, an old Iranian film forever etched in my mind. In it, Fardin and Zohouri mash the meat, tap the marrow from the bones, pound a raw onion by hand, and eat abgoosht as they sing and tease Arman! There are many variations of abgoushts, each with its own regional and family traditions. This recipe was passed down from my mother, which I still treasure and often use.

Dizi - Iranian Lamb & Chickpea Soup

Ingredients
Serves 4-6

-3 lamb shanks (about 3 pounds)
-1 cup chickpeas, rinsed, soaked overnight
-1 cup white beans, rinsed, soaked overnight
-2 large onions, peeled, quartered
-4 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and cut in half
-3 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and cut in half
- 3 whole limoo amani (dried lemons) found in Persian grocery stores
-1/2 tablespoon turmeric
-A pinch of cinnamon
-1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
-2 tablespoons vegetable oil
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Water (8 cups)

Method:

1. In a large soup pot, place the lamb shanks and add eight cups of water. 
2. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. 
3. Add the turmeric, cinnamon, limoo amani, onions, chickpeas, beans, salt, and pepper.  Cover and cook on medium heat for about 1 hour.
4. In a small skillet,  heat the oil over medium heat. Sauté the tomato paste briefly to mellow its raw taste.
5. Add the sauteed tomato paste, tomatoes, and potatoes to the pot, cover, and continue cooking for another 1 hour or until all ingredients are tender.
6. Taste and adjust seasoning. Remove from the heat. Drain the broth through a sieve, discard the bones, and mash the remaining ingredients using a masher until well blended.

To serve: Ladle the broth into a large serving bowl and spoon the meat and potato mixture onto a serving platter. Serve alongside warm bread, pickles, yogurt, and fresh herbs.

Enjoy!

Soup-e Morgh o Sabzijat - Maman's Feel-Good Chicken Vegetable Soup

It has been very cold recently and I decided to make my mother's special pot of سوپ مرغ و سبزیجات soup-e morgh o sabzijat (chicken vegetable soup). My mother's chicken soup varied each time depending on the severity of how sick we were growing up and the type of ingredients she had lying around in her kitchen at the time or what was seasonally available in the market. It could be a bland chicken wing soup with lots of parsley and a bowl of cooked turnip on the side, or a joojeh (young chicken) with all kinds of vegetables and a good squirt of lemon juice. According to my mother, a bowl of chicken soup or eating a couple of cooked شلغم shalgham (turnip) was as good as a shot of penicillin.

There are countless numbers of chicken soup recipes worldwide. Every country, or rather everyone, has their own favorite version. It's believed that chicken soup has healing properties. Whether that's true or not I believe that there's something magical in that bowl of warm homemade soup that makes you feel better in addition to taking your medications and getting enough rest.

My mother made this recipe many times while I was growing up. However, she would rarely add tomatoes or noodles to the soup. I, on the other hand, like to add a couple of small tomatoes to enhance the taste and the color. Adding noodles makes the soup a bit more substantial. For a healthier soup, I don't brown the chicken pieces with chopped onion. I also don't use any canned ingredients such as tomato sauce and I don't use black pepper either. You may leave the chicken skin on but I prefer removing it for a less greasy soup.

Soup-e Morgh o Sabzijat - Chicken Vegetable Soup

Ingredients:
Serves 4

4 chicken drumsticks, rinsed, skin removed
1 medium onion, chopped
2 medium turnips, cubed
2 small carrots, chopped into small pieces
2 celery stalks, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 small tomatoes, remove the skin, chopped
A bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
A bunch of fresh cilantro, chopped
A bunch of scallions or chives, chopped
A handful of vermicelli noodles
2 medium lime or lemons
Salt to taste

Method:

1. In a large pot place the chicken pieces, onion, garlic, turnip, carrots, tomatoes and celery. 
2. Add 6 cups of water and a pinch of salt, bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Reduce heat, cover, and cook for 45 minutes.
3. Add the chopped fresh vegetables (parsley, cilantro, scallions) and the noodles. Add more water if needed. Cover and cook for another 30 minutes or until the chicken is fully cooked. Add the lime juice, taste it, and adjust the seasoning.

Ladle the soup into a serving bowl and serve hot.

Ask Attar about the sadness of my pain

Ask a patient about the length of a night

Everyone asks how I am

You that are my heart and soul, ask me for once

~ Baba Taher
My humble translation

Enjoy! Wishing you all a happy and healthy 2013!

Abdoogh Khiar - Persian Cold Yogurt Soup with Cucumbers, Herbs, Walnuts & Raisins

آبدوغ خیار Abdoogh khiar is a chilled yogurt soup with aromatic fresh herbs, diced cucumbers, chopped radishes, crushed walnuts, and sweet golden raisins, topped with dried rose petals and served with pieces of dried/toasted flatbread. With the temperature pushing 90 degrees Fahrenheit for several days, this traditional summer recipe helps replenish and keep you cool during the hot, sauna-like weather. Then, all you need to do is take a 15-minute nap right after! That's how I remember it being in our home. Most of you who grew up in Iran probably remember the dreaded grown-ups' chorte baad az nahar (nap after lunch) in your home, and that you were not allowed to play outside while they were napping. This was way before the world of text messaging, Instagram, Facebook, and the internet to keep you busy. However, we were not as easily bored as the kids, who seemed to have everything they could possibly want.

Yogurt is a staple in Persian cuisine, and it's usually served either plain or as mast o khiar, a healthy side dish for most meals, or as doogh, our favorite yogurt drink. You most likely already have the main ingredients either in your refrigerator, cupboards or right on your kitchen table, and what makes it easy is that the exact measurement of the ingredients is not really necessary. I posted this recipe a long time ago as just mast o sabzi without making it into a cold soup. This is more or less the same recipe with some minor changes. For this recipe, it's best to use mast-e kiseh (thick yogurt) for a creamier soup. To that, you can either add cold water or ice cubes. Make sure not to make it too watery. Also, if you happen to have any leftover dried flatbread, cut it into pieces and add it to the soup a few minutes before serving. This way, the bread won't be too mushy and will still have some chew. You can add dried herbs to the cold soup if fresh ones are not available.

Abdoogh Khiar

Ingredients
Serves 4

-2 cups plain yogurt
-4 small Persian seedless cucumbers, peeled and cut into small pieces
-3 medium-sized radishes, finely chopped
-1 small bunch of fresh chives, chopped
-1 small bunch of fresh mint, chopped
-1 small bunch of fresh basil, chopped
-1 small bunch of fresh tarragon, chopped
-A few sprigs of fresh dill, chopped
-1/2 cup of walnuts, roughly chopped
-1/2 cup of yellow raisins, rinsed 
-Salt and pepper to taste
-1 teaspoon dried rose petals
-Dried or toasted flatbread
-Cold water and ice cubes

Method

1.  In a large bowl, beat the yogurt with a whisk for a minute until smooth.
2. Add the chopped cucumbers, radishes, chives, mint, basil, tarragon, dill, raisins, and walnuts; mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for a couple of hours.
3. Remove from the refrigerator and add two cups of cold water while mixing.  Add a cup of crushed ice.
4. About 5-7 minutes before serving, add a handful of small pieces of flatbread to the soup or serve on the side. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To serve, ladle abdoogh khiar into a large serving bowl or individual bowls and garnish with dried rose petals.

Enjoy!

Sholeh Maash - Persian Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Hearty Soup

Ever since I saw the recipe for shole maash online in the 19th-century Qajar Women Cookbook, I have been thinking about giving it a try. شله ماش  Sholeh Maash (mung beans with kohlrabi) makes a tasty and nutritious autumn soup. This recipe, like the others in the book, consists of a brief description of what the necessary ingredients are, and the word yek-meghdar (some) is frequently used to describe the amount needed for each ingredient. Persian cuisine is forgiving in terms of measurements, and when you ask a grandmother for a recipe, the answer is basically a list of the ingredients with yek-kami (a little bit) of this and yek-meghdar (some) of that, and that's how I, along with many other Iranians, learned to cook. I learned that you can use a little less or a little more of most ingredients in a recipe, depending on your taste and preferences. A few months into blogging, I bought a food scale to measure the ingredients by weight, but I have rarely used it.

Sholeh maash is not a thin and watery soup. It's a rather rich soup that can be served as a main dish. The original recipe calls for meat, but I've decided that it is substantial enough without the addition of any lamb or beef.

Sholeh Maash - Persian Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Hearty Soup

Ingredients:
Serves 6

1 1/2  cups green mung beans, rinse 2-3 times
1/2 cup rice, rinse well
3-4 medium-sized kohlrabi, peel and cut into small cubes, leave one cubed kohlrabi for the topping
1 large bunch of fresh tareh or scallions (green parts only), washed and chopped
1 small bunch of fresh tarragon, stems removed and chopped
Water
Salt and pepper to taste
2 large onions, thinly sliced
2-3 garlic cloves, diced
1/3 teaspoon turmeric
1/3 teaspoon red pepper *optional
1/3 teaspoon cumin *optional
Oil

Method:

1. Place the beans and the rice in a large pot, add 6 cups of water, and bring to a boil on medium-high heat.
2. Add the small pieces of kohlrabi, salt, pepper, cover, and cook for 45 minutes on low heat.
3. Periodically check to see if you need to add more water to the soup.
4. Add the chopped vegetables, taste and adjust the seasoning, add more hot water if needed, and let it simmer for another 15 minutes for the flavors to blend in.
5. In the meantime, fry the sliced onions in 3-4 tablespoons of hot vegetable oil in a skillet until golden brown. Add the turmeric powder and the minced garlic to the oil, stir, and saute further for another five minutes.
6. Add a large tablespoon of the fried onion to the soup and gently mix well.
7. Lightly fry the cubed kohlrabi in 2-3 tablespoons of hot vegetable oil until soft and golden on medium heat. Add a pinch of salt, turmeric, cumin, and red pepper and stir well.

To serve, ladle the soup into a soup bowl, top with the fried onions and kohlrabi. Serve hot with bread and yogurt.

Enjoy!

Ash-e Somagh - Persian Herb and Sumac Soup

It may officially be spring but the weather is still cold and windy. That means there's still plenty of time to make a warm pot of soup. This is also a good opportunity for me to use the recipe that inspired me in the only Iranian cookbook that I own! This cookbook was given to me by mother when I left home many years ago and  is called "Noosh-e Jan Konid" (Bon Appetit), by Mansoureh Amir Ebrahimi, which was published in Tehran. I don't know much about khanoum Amir Ebrahimi; in the introduction she writes that she had a cooking radio show called "Zan O Zendegi" (Woman and Life) and she decided after ten years to turn the recipes from her radio program into a cookbook. That's perhaps the reason why my mother found out and chose this book for me to take on my long journey abroad. Sometimes, a gift will last you a lifetime! I can imagine her listening to Mrs. Amir Ebrahimi's program in the morning while tidying up our rooms, rearranging furniture and preparing lunch. Well, for many years I had no use for a cookbook, I basically lived on cafeteria food, fruits, yogurt and bread. I kept the book in a box with the rest of the books and magazines that I accumulated over the years. I re-discovered it during my recent spring cleaning and decided to pay tribute to this less well-known author and her cookbook. I have searched her name on the Internet but unfortunately I have not been able to find much information on her. I am becoming increasingly passionate about preserving what's been good in the past and to pass it along.

I chose آش سماق  ash-e somagh recipe to highlight because it's rich, creamy, comforting and delicious. However, I made a few changes. The original recipe calls for small meatballs but I decided to make a vegetarian soup with lentils instead. If you prefer, you can add meatballs to the soup. The recipe also calls for either rice flour or small broken rice to reduce the cooking time and perhaps to make the texture more smooth and creamy. I used basmati rice and it turned out well. Also, since the amount of ingredients recommended in the recipe were more than what I usually make for our family of four I decided to cut down the amount of rice, herbs and sumac. Finally, I served ash-e somagh with the usual caramelized onion, garlic and mint topping.

Sumac gives this soup a subtle tangy taste. Sumac is mostly sprinkled on kabab dishes for extra flavorings. Growing up, sumac was always on the table alongside salt and pepper.

Ash-e Somagh - Herb and Sumac Soup

Recipe adapted from Noosh-e Jan Konid by Mrs. Mansoureh Amir Ebrahimi

Ingredients:
Serves 4-6

1 cup rice, rinsed
1/2 cup lentils, rinsed
3-4 tablespoons dried sumac, soaked in 1/2 cup of cool water for an hour
1 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, hard stems removed
1 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup finely chopped fresh chives or scallions (green parts only)
1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon, hard stems removed
A few sprigs of mint, washed and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Water

Topping:

1 large onion, cut into small pieces or thinly sliced
4-5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1-2 tablespoons dried mint
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Method:

1. Put the rice in a large stew pot, add 8 cups of water, bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Then lower heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Pour in the lentils, stir well, cover and cook for 30 minutes. Add water if necessary. Always add hot water to the stew that's cooking on the stove. Cool water will interrupt the simmering/boiling process.
3. Stir in the chopped herbs into the soup. Add salt and pepper to taste and let it simmer on low heat for another 10 minutes.
4. You may drain sumac in a very fine mesh strainer and add the liquid into the soup as suggested in the book or pour in the soaked sumac and all liquid and cook for another 10-15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.
5. In the meantime, saute onions in hot oil. When golden brown, add turmeric, stir well, mix in the garlic and mint, and saute for another 5 minutes on medium heat.
6. Add some of the fried onion mixture into the soup, stir well and save the rest for garnish.

Ladle the soup into a serving bowl, garnish with fried onion and drizzle some of its oil, sprinkle a little bit of sumac and serve with warm lavash and yogurt. Ash-e somagh may be served hot or cold.

* For ash-e somagh with meatballs, combine a pound of ground meat (lamb, beef or turkey), salt, pepper, a handful of chopped herbs, 1 small grated onion, one egg, 1 tablespoon of flour, mix well. Make tiny meatballs, brown on all sides in hot vegetable oil and add to the soup half way through cooking.

Enjoy!