Khagineh - Iranian Sweet Omelette from Sofreh At'ameh - A Qajar Dynasty Cookbook

I recently received a copy of سفره اطعمه Sofreh At'ameh, a delightful cookbook written in 1881 by Mirza Ali Akbar Khan Kashani, the royal head chef to the court of ناصرالدین شاه قاجار  Naser al-Din Shah Qajar (1831-1896), the fourth king of the Qajar dynasty. The French Dr. Joseph Desire Tholozan was the chief physician to the king for more than 30 years. He asked the آشپزباشی ashpazbashi (chef) of the royal court to put together a guide detailing the king's diet, eating habits, and his typical daily menu, to be able to serve him better. Sofreh At'ameh is filled with bits and pieces of information that give one a glimpse into the past. This book is a compilation of recipes, ingredients, and virtually everything that was served in the royal palace for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, including sharbat (sweet drinks), khoresh (stew), ash (soup), polow (rice), moraba (jam), and torshi (pickles).

Naser al-Din Shah Qajar

Joseph DésiréTholozan

There are many timeless recipes in this book that I think most Iranians know by heart as well as new recipes that are definitely worth trying. There are also a few dishes that I had forgotten about and reading this book helped refresh my memory. One of those recipes was خاگینه khagineh. I remember Maman serving a delicious fluffy sweet omelet that could also be eaten as a dessert. Back then I never thought to ask her how she made it and the recipe never made it into my handwritten recipe journal. Yet, when I saw it in the book I knew I had to make it. However, like many old cookbooks, most of the recipes in this book lack exact measurements. Therefore, the following is my adaptation of its khagineh recipe. 

Khagineh - Sweet Omelette
Adapted from Sofreh At'ameh 

Ingredients

Serves 2

-3 large eggs
-1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
-2 tablespoons butter
-A little dash of salt (optional)

Sugar Syrup

-1/2 cup water
-1/2 cup sugar
-Pinch ground cardamom
-Pinch ground saffron

Method

1. In a small pot, combine water and sugar, bring water to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely. Add the cardamom and saffron. Stir well and let simmer uncovered on low heat for another 5-7 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth.
3. Add in the flour and mix well.
4. In a nonstick skillet, heat the butter over medium heat until it has melted. Pour in the egg mixture all at once. Cook over low heat for about 2 minutes or until eggs are almost set but not hard, and gently flip the eggs using a thin spatula and cook for another two minutes. Slice the eggs and slowly pour the syrup over the eggs, and cook for another minute or until the syrup is fully absorbed. You may use other sweeteners such as honey or grape molasses. 

Transfer onto a platter and serve warm or at room temperature. I added a tiny pinch of dried, crushed rose petals and a little powdered sugar for dusting.

*Historical Cookbook recipes:

Borani Kangar-Yogurt and Cardoon Dip - A Qajar Era Recipe
Sholeh Maash - Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Soup - A Qajar Era Recipe
Ash-e Jo - Barley Soup with Spinach and Cilantro -A Safavid Era Recipe

Enjoy!

Ash-e Jo - Barley Soup with Spinach and Cilantro: A Safavid Era Recipe

I was gifted an Iranian cookbook titled آشپزی دوره صفوی - Ashpazi Doreh-ye Safavid (Cooking during the Safavid Dynasty). This cookbook is a compilation of two separate books (Karnameh and Madat-al-Hayat) about cooking and recipes from the era of Shah Ismail I ( 1501-1524) and Shah Abbas I (1588-1629). According to the author, Iraj Afshar, many of the recipes in this book were dishes served at the Safavid royal court. The working-class people could barely afford most of these extravagant, elaborate, and time-consuming meals. I suspect that this book would appeal to those interested in the history of Iranian cuisine. While many of the recipes are not easy to read or easy to make, the instructions are vague, the servings are large, and the correct measurement of ingredients is left to your imagination, it's wonderful to have a glimpse into the type of food people used to eat long ago.

On a personal note, I am very passionate about recreating old and forgotten recipes and have a deep desire to bring them back to life. I decided to try out one of the recipes, and among the many recipes listed in the book, I came across a simple vegetarian barley soup with spinach and cilantro. I would think a warm bowl of barley soup would have appealed to the Safavid royal court as well as the working-class people, especially in the cold days of winter. I have written two other barley recipes in the past, Soup-e Jo and Ash-e Jo, and this آش جو ash-e jo recipe would be a great addition to my barley recipes. I used this brief and loose ash recipe with vague directions and converted it into a usable recipe, and I'm delighted to share it with you all. I tried to stay true to the original recipe and keep it as authentic as possible while coming up with my own measurements and proportions. Adding lime juice, butter/olive oil to the ash is simply a personal preference, and you may skip it if you like.

Ash-e Jo - Barley Soup with Spinach and Cilantro

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-1 cup barley
-1 cup chopped cilantro
-1 cup chopped spinach
-A handful of almonds
-Salt and pepper
-Freshly squeezed lime juice (optional)
-Butter/olive oil *optional

Method:

1. Place the raw almonds in a small bowl, cover with boiling water, let sit for a few minutes, remove the skins, and let the almonds dry completely. You can use a food processor or a mortar and pestle to grind the almonds. Set aside.
2. Rinse barley under cool running water, drain, and place in a saucepan. Cover the barley with a couple of inches of water, bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover partially and simmer for 45 minutes or until tender.
3. Add the chopped cilantro, spinach, and ground almonds. Add more water if needed. Simmer on low heat for another 10-15 minutes.
4. Add 1-2 tablespoons of butter or olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, stir well, taste, and adjust the seasoning.

Serve the ash in individual soup bowls and drizzle each serving with a generous squeeze of lime juice.

Enjoy!

Gozlemeh - Fried Eggs with Garlic Yogurt Sauce - Iranian Style

گزلمه (gozlemeh/gozleme) is a regional dish of استان آذربایجان غربی (West Azerbaijan province) served throughout the capital city of ارومیه (Orumieh/Urmia). Gozlemeh is just a perfect recipe for a spring brunch or a light summer lunch. I came across this simple and healthy recipe long ago while going through an old Iranian cooking manual. However, I was a bit hesitant about making a dish I had never had before and had never even heard of. In Iran, each region has its own unique food that people from other provinces may not be familiar with. Finally, a few days ago, I decided to give this recipe a try for the first time. I ended up making it again the next day, and it tasted even better. As I prepared this warm and creamy yogurt dish topped with exquisite fried eggs and a touch of turmeric (my fave spice) and served it over toasted flatbread, it made me feel as though I had traveled to Western Azerbaijan and was eating a delicious gozlemeh in someone's home in Orumieh!

When making a new recipe, I am most comfortable if I have at least had a chance to taste it once before to know exactly what the meal should taste like and what flavors to expect. However, that doesn't stop me from trying out new recipes. Occasionally, my daughters bring different recipes home that they would like to try, and we make it together. Now that they know how to cook for themselves, I get to be the taste tester, and I watch them hone their cooking skills. That's how I learned to cook at a young age by watching my mother cook and also by helping out in the kitchen. One time, when I was eleven years old, my mother told me to take the raw chicken out of the fridge and cook it for lunch as she was heading out the door in a hurry and did not leave any instructions. It is challenging moments such as this that propel one to figure things out on one's own and learn things faster. Cooking, like most things in life, takes practice before you feel confident that you can create a delicious, healthy meal with whatever you have in your pantry/refrigerator, with or without a recipe.

My advice to novice cooks is to familiarize themselves with the ingredients that they are going to use, learn about different methods of cooking, always go for fresh and good-quality ingredients if available, read the recipe a few times before starting to cook, and have all the necessary kitchen tools and gadgets ready to go. And if you are like me, cleaning and washing as you cook, place a mat between the sink and the counter or wear a pair of non-skid shoes! Put your apron on, take charge, and make the recipe your own by substituting what you don't have and adjusting the amount of sugar, fat, and the level of spiciness to your liking and your dietary restrictions while staying true to the recipe.

I have made some changes to the original recipe. I also added a pinch of turmeric to the oil in the skillet before frying two of the eggs (a personal preference). This recipe doesn't take long to make. You may want to set the table and have the drinks, bread, and condiments ready before you start cooking.

Gozlemeh

Ingredients

Serves 2

-4 large eggs (preferably organic)
-1 1/2 cups strained yogurt
-1 large garlic clove
-Salt
-Pepper, freshly ground
-A pinch of turmeric (optional)
-Butter or vegetable oil (I used canola oil)
-2 lavash bread, lightly toasted

Method

1. Place the garlic clove with a pinch of salt in the mortar and pestle and finely crush.
2. Add a tablespoon of water to the strained yogurt, stir well to loosen it up a little.
3. Add the crushed garlic to the yogurt. Mix thoroughly.
4. Heat a tablespoon of butter in a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic yogurt mixture, heat thoroughly for a few minutes, and remove from the heat before it starts to boil.  
5. Spread the yogurt mixture generously on each of the toasted flatbreads separately.
6. Heat a couple of tablespoons of oil or butter in a frying pan, add a pinch of turmeric, and swirl around the pan a couple of times. Add the eggs to the hot frying pan, cook until the white is set, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Use a spatula to remove the eggs from the pan. 
7. Place them on the bread with the yogurt mixture and serve warm.

Enjoy!

Halva-ye Haveej - Persian Carrot Halva with Saffron and Rose Water

For my first post of the fall season I have chosen this tasty and perfect for every occasion حلوای هویج halva-ye haveej (carrot halva). I also wanted to share this recipe for more reasons besides it being simply delicious. In our house we are big fans of carrots. We like plain and raw carrot sticks and the idea of cooked carrots never appealed to me since my daughters have always disliked mushy carrots.  However, this time I decided to do something different with some of the 10-pound bag of carrots in my refrigerator. For inspiration, I went to my feel-good, old Iranian cookbook! There may be many beautifully illustrated and well designed cookbooks with high-gloss covers out there but for me this unpretentious cookbook by Mansoureh Amir Ebrahimi that my mother gave me many years ago gives me a rare glimpse into the past where the traditional recipes could feed an army and kitchen gadgets such as measuring tools and scales were unheard of. I like to find those rare home-style recipes that were made in real kitchens by home-makers that simply wanted to feed their families healthy and delicious meals. As I leafed through the loose pages of the cookbook I was drawn to the simplicity of this healthy recipe that warms your heart on chilly autumn days. This is my second post from this cookbook. My first post was ash-e somagh (sumac soup).

The most popular halva in Iranian cuisine is made with wheat flour (preferably whole wheat). However, carrot halva is gluten free and dairy free but has the creamy texture of pudding. You can reduce the amount of sugar and butter further for a  healthier dessert. I have more or less stayed true to the recipe but I had to reduce the amount of ingredients the recipe calls for and make a few minor changes. This is one of those recipes that is meant to be shared by sending a plate over to a friend, relative or neighbor.

Halva-ye Haveej - Carrot Halva

Ingredients:
Serves 6-8

2 pounds carrots, peeled and shredded
1 1/2 cup rice flour, sifted
1 1/2 cup sugar
4-5 tablespoons unsalted butter
2-3 tablespoons rose water
1/4 teaspoon crushed saffron dissolved in 3-4 tablespoons hot water
1/4 teaspoon cardamom powder
Water

Garnish:

2-3 tablespoons pistachios (crushed)
2-3  tablespoons almonds (slivered) *optional
1 teaspoon crushed dried rose petals *optional

Method:

1. Combine the sugar and 1-1/2 cups of water in a small pot, bring to a gentle boil on medium heat stirring well until sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside.
2. Place the shredded carrots in a pot, add 1-1/2 cups of water, cover and cook over medium-low heat for about 30-40 minutes or until carrots are soft.
3. Mash the carrots using a hand masher, electric mixer or a fork for a smoother consistency.
4. In a large sized skillet with a cover melt the butter over medium heat, add the sifted rice flour, stir frequently until the flour turns light golden brown. 
5. Add the mashed carrots to the rice flour. Mix well.
6. Gradually pour the sugar syrup over the carrot and rice flour mixture. Add saffron, rose water and cardamom. Combine thoroughly. Cover and cook over low heat until the flavors come together for another 30 minutes.

To serve, scoop the halva onto a serving platter and smooth out the surface with the back of a spoon and sprinkle the top with pistachios.

Enjoy!

Pan-Fried Turkey Burgers - Parsi Style

For those of you who read my blog regularly, you probably know that this blog is solely dedicated to Persian home cooking, the kind of food that I grew up with, and that I also write about recipes from different regions of Iran that I mostly learn either from my good friends or from reading those few authentic Iranian cookbooks out there. However, this time, I'm going beyond posting my own recipe or writing about a mahali (regional) recipe from somewhere in Iran. For this turkey burger recipe, I am going back several hundred years into ancient Persian history, when a large number of devout Zartoshtian-e Irani (Parsi) fled their homeland after the Arab invasion and migrated to southern India in the 10th century AD, because of religious persecution. Zoroastrianism was the dominant religion of the region at the time and was founded by Zartosht (Zoroaster). The important message of Zoroastrianism is pendar-e nik (to think good thoughts), goftar-e nik (to say good words), and kerdar-e nik (to do good deeds).

There's a well-known story about the Parsi settlement in India and their cultural absorption. It's been said that the ruler of Gujarat, Jadi Rana, was not very welcoming and was concerned about overpopulation problems. In a meeting with the king, the Parsi leader asked for a full glass of milk and a spoonful of sugar. Then, as he gently added the sugar into the glass of milk without any spillage, he said, "We are like sugar, we will only sweeten your country." The Parsi community blended and thrived well in India while it also maintained its religion.

Parsi cuisine, with its roots in ancient Persia, is a unique combination of both Indian and Persian-style cooking. I had read about Parsi food while reading other food blogs over the past few years, but it wasn't until I came across the wonderful book, My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking by Niloufer Ichaporia King, that I became tremendously intrigued and decided to write a post about it. Her story and her Parsi recipes have totally won me over. Plus, I am passionate about all things Iranian, even if it's a thousand years removed!

On a more personal note, one day, a couple of years before I was born, my mother met a young Zartoshti couple with two adorable little girls during a sizdah bedar outing. One of the girls' names was Azita, and that was the first time my mother had heard that name. She decided she was going to name her next baby girl Azita. It took her months to persuade my father, who had a very uncommon name in mind. I am grateful that my mother met that family before I was born and that she didn't waver under pressure.

This recipe is adapted from Niloufer Ichaporia King's My Bombay Kitchen. I tweaked the recipe a little to my liking by reducing the amount of pepper and fresh ginger by almost half and substituting the optional fresh mint with parsley. This recipe can be made with ground chicken as well.

Parsi-Style Turkey Burger

Ingredients:
Serves 4

1 pound skinless, boneless ground turkey
3 green onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon of fresh ginger, minced
2 green chilies, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 large egg
Salt to taste
Vegetable oil

Method:

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine ground turkey, green onions, cilantro, parsley, green chiles, egg, and salt to taste. Mix all ingredients thoroughly by hand.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Take a handful of the turkey mixture and form into a patty. Place the patty in the skillet and fry until brown on both sides.

Serve on a bun with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle.

Here are some Parsi food links that you might find useful:

Parsi Pakoras from The Traveler's Lunchbox
Parsi Tomato Chutney from The Wednesday Chef
Ravo (Parsi Semolina Pudding) from Fork Spoon Knife
Veg Dhansak - A Parsi Traditional Recipe from Veg Recipes of India

Enjoy!

Sholeh Maash - Persian Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Hearty Soup

Ever since I saw the recipe for shole maash online in the 19th-century Qajar Women Cookbook, I have been thinking about giving it a try. شله ماش  Sholeh Maash (mung beans with kohlrabi) makes a tasty and nutritious autumn soup. This recipe, like the others in the book, consists of a brief description of what the necessary ingredients are, and the word yek-meghdar (some) is frequently used to describe the amount needed for each ingredient. Persian cuisine is forgiving in terms of measurements, and when you ask a grandmother for a recipe, the answer is basically a list of the ingredients with yek-kami (a little bit) of this and yek-meghdar (some) of that, and that's how I, along with many other Iranians, learned to cook. I learned that you can use a little less or a little more of most ingredients in a recipe, depending on your taste and preferences. A few months into blogging, I bought a food scale to measure the ingredients by weight, but I have rarely used it.

Sholeh maash is not a thin and watery soup. It's a rather rich soup that can be served as a main dish. The original recipe calls for meat, but I've decided that it is substantial enough without the addition of any lamb or beef.

Sholeh Maash - Persian Green Mung Bean and Kohlrabi Hearty Soup

Ingredients:
Serves 6

1 1/2  cups green mung beans, rinse 2-3 times
1/2 cup rice, rinse well
3-4 medium-sized kohlrabi, peel and cut into small cubes, leave one cubed kohlrabi for the topping
1 large bunch of fresh tareh or scallions (green parts only), washed and chopped
1 small bunch of fresh tarragon, stems removed and chopped
Water
Salt and pepper to taste
2 large onions, thinly sliced
2-3 garlic cloves, diced
1/3 teaspoon turmeric
1/3 teaspoon red pepper *optional
1/3 teaspoon cumin *optional
Oil

Method:

1. Place the beans and the rice in a large pot, add 6 cups of water, and bring to a boil on medium-high heat.
2. Add the small pieces of kohlrabi, salt, pepper, cover, and cook for 45 minutes on low heat.
3. Periodically check to see if you need to add more water to the soup.
4. Add the chopped vegetables, taste and adjust the seasoning, add more hot water if needed, and let it simmer for another 15 minutes for the flavors to blend in.
5. In the meantime, fry the sliced onions in 3-4 tablespoons of hot vegetable oil in a skillet until golden brown. Add the turmeric powder and the minced garlic to the oil, stir, and saute further for another five minutes.
6. Add a large tablespoon of the fried onion to the soup and gently mix well.
7. Lightly fry the cubed kohlrabi in 2-3 tablespoons of hot vegetable oil until soft and golden on medium heat. Add a pinch of salt, turmeric, cumin, and red pepper and stir well.

To serve, ladle the soup into a soup bowl, top with the fried onions and kohlrabi. Serve hot with bread and yogurt.

Enjoy!

Borani Kangar - Persian Yogurt and Cardoon Dip

A few weeks ago I came across an interesting online copy of an old and rare Iranian cookbook, dating back to the last years of the Qajar dynasty, written in beautiful Persian Nastea'liq handwriting. This cookbook may give us a tiny glimpse into the dynasty that ruled Iran from 1794-1925. Most of the recipes are brief and not easy to follow and some of them seem to be merely a translation of European recipes into Persian. The majority of the recipes basically include the list of the main ingredients with little directions. For those who are interested to see this document please click the following link Women's Worlds in Qajar Iran.

While browsing the book, the recipe for بورانی کنگر borani kangar, also known as mast-o-kangar (yogurt with cardoons), caught my attention. That's when I decided to give it a try but the problem is that I have never seen Iranian kangar anywhere. Kangar looks like a thin celery with thorns and has a very delicate taste and they are in season for a very short time, a few weeks at most. Yogurt and cardoon dip has a distinct flavor and even though it may take some time and effort to prepare cardoons it is definitely worth it.

Luckily, a few days later I was able to find cardoons that are a good substitute for kangar in John's Farm, an Italian vegetable market. However, fresh cardoon has a bitter taste and needs to be soaked or cooked in salted water. Also, in order to prevent cardoons from changing colors during preparation they need to be placed in acidulated water. I found the following link helpful in Preparing Cardoons.

Borani Kangar - Persian Yogurt and Cardoon Dip

Ingredients:
Serves 4

1 bunch cardoons
2 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1-2 garlic cloves, minced *optional
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

1. To prepare cardoons remove all leaves and thorns, peel strings with a peeler, cut the stalks into small pieces.
2. To prevent discoloration place the cardoons in a bowl of water and juice of two large lemons for ten minutes.
3. In a large pot bring 4 cups of water to a boil on medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of salt and cardoons. Cook for 10 minutes or until tender and drain. 
4. Chop cardoons finely by hand or use a food processor.
5. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pan, add minced garlic and saute for 2 minutes. Then add the chopped cardoons and saute lightly for 5-7 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Let cool.
6. Combine yogurt and cardoon garlic mixture together, taste and adjust the seasoning. 
7. Place borani in a serving bowl and garnish with dried mint. I also used crushed walnuts and barberries but that's optional. Serve it as an appetizer cold or at room temperature with your favorite dish or any party meals.

*Variation: Combine chopped cardoons with yogurt, mix well and add salt and pepper to taste and skip step #5 in the above recipe.

Enjoy!

Ash-e Somagh - Persian Herb and Sumac Soup

It may officially be spring but the weather is still cold and windy. That means there's still plenty of time to make a warm pot of soup. This is also a good opportunity for me to use the recipe that inspired me in the only Iranian cookbook that I own! This cookbook was given to me by mother when I left home many years ago and  is called "Noosh-e Jan Konid" (Bon Appetit), by Mansoureh Amir Ebrahimi, which was published in Tehran. I don't know much about khanoum Amir Ebrahimi; in the introduction she writes that she had a cooking radio show called "Zan O Zendegi" (Woman and Life) and she decided after ten years to turn the recipes from her radio program into a cookbook. That's perhaps the reason why my mother found out and chose this book for me to take on my long journey abroad. Sometimes, a gift will last you a lifetime! I can imagine her listening to Mrs. Amir Ebrahimi's program in the morning while tidying up our rooms, rearranging furniture and preparing lunch. Well, for many years I had no use for a cookbook, I basically lived on cafeteria food, fruits, yogurt and bread. I kept the book in a box with the rest of the books and magazines that I accumulated over the years. I re-discovered it during my recent spring cleaning and decided to pay tribute to this less well-known author and her cookbook. I have searched her name on the Internet but unfortunately I have not been able to find much information on her. I am becoming increasingly passionate about preserving what's been good in the past and to pass it along.

I chose آش سماق  ash-e somagh recipe to highlight because it's rich, creamy, comforting and delicious. However, I made a few changes. The original recipe calls for small meatballs but I decided to make a vegetarian soup with lentils instead. If you prefer, you can add meatballs to the soup. The recipe also calls for either rice flour or small broken rice to reduce the cooking time and perhaps to make the texture more smooth and creamy. I used basmati rice and it turned out well. Also, since the amount of ingredients recommended in the recipe were more than what I usually make for our family of four I decided to cut down the amount of rice, herbs and sumac. Finally, I served ash-e somagh with the usual caramelized onion, garlic and mint topping.

Sumac gives this soup a subtle tangy taste. Sumac is mostly sprinkled on kabab dishes for extra flavorings. Growing up, sumac was always on the table alongside salt and pepper.

Ash-e Somagh - Herb and Sumac Soup

Recipe adapted from Noosh-e Jan Konid by Mrs. Mansoureh Amir Ebrahimi

Ingredients:
Serves 4-6

1 cup rice, rinsed
1/2 cup lentils, rinsed
3-4 tablespoons dried sumac, soaked in 1/2 cup of cool water for an hour
1 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, hard stems removed
1 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup finely chopped fresh chives or scallions (green parts only)
1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon, hard stems removed
A few sprigs of mint, washed and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Water

Topping:

1 large onion, cut into small pieces or thinly sliced
4-5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1-2 tablespoons dried mint
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Method:

1. Put the rice in a large stew pot, add 8 cups of water, bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Then lower heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Pour in the lentils, stir well, cover and cook for 30 minutes. Add water if necessary. Always add hot water to the stew that's cooking on the stove. Cool water will interrupt the simmering/boiling process.
3. Stir in the chopped herbs into the soup. Add salt and pepper to taste and let it simmer on low heat for another 10 minutes.
4. You may drain sumac in a very fine mesh strainer and add the liquid into the soup as suggested in the book or pour in the soaked sumac and all liquid and cook for another 10-15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.
5. In the meantime, saute onions in hot oil. When golden brown, add turmeric, stir well, mix in the garlic and mint, and saute for another 5 minutes on medium heat.
6. Add some of the fried onion mixture into the soup, stir well and save the rest for garnish.

Ladle the soup into a serving bowl, garnish with fried onion and drizzle some of its oil, sprinkle a little bit of sumac and serve with warm lavash and yogurt. Ash-e somagh may be served hot or cold.

* For ash-e somagh with meatballs, combine a pound of ground meat (lamb, beef or turkey), salt, pepper, a handful of chopped herbs, 1 small grated onion, one egg, 1 tablespoon of flour, mix well. Make tiny meatballs, brown on all sides in hot vegetable oil and add to the soup half way through cooking.

Enjoy!

Toot - Mulberry (Persian-Style Marzipan Confection)

توت Toot (mulberry) is the sweet fruit of the mulberry tree. Toot Badami is a Persian-style marzipan treat inspired by the white mulberry. It's made from a mixture of ground almonds and sugar, molded into the shape of a white mulberry fruit, and often decorated with pistachio "stems." 

Traditionally, toot is prepared for Nowruz (Persian New Year) and wedding ceremonies to symbolize sweetness and prosperity. This is a simple and quick sweet that requires only a few ingredients. It's also a fun activity to do with your kids on special occasions.

If you grew up in Iran, you likely have a memory of climbing a mulberry tree, shaking its branches, or eagerly collecting the ripe fruits that tumbled down. In springtime, when I pass by the mulberry trees heavy with white, red,  or black berries on my way to the park near my home in a small Long Island town,  I can't help but feel a wave of nostalgia, remembering the joy of picking mulberries as a child.

Fresh, ripe mulberry fruits are sweet and juicy. White mulberries are often sun-dried and enjoyed with tea as a mild, naturally sweet treat, a healthy alternative for those who need to watch their sugar intake. 

Interestingly, white mulberry leaves are the main source of food for silkworms. Many centuries ago, the cultivation of mulberry trees and the production of silk were highly encouraged in Persia, which lay along the ancient trade route from China to Europe called Jadeh-Abrisham (The Silk Road). Some of the towns on the route included Kermanshah, Hamadan, Ray, Yazd, and Nayshabour.

Sassanid silk twill textile of a Simorgh in a beaded surround, 6–7th century, Wikipedia

Jadeh Abrisham, The Silk Road, Wikipedia

This recipe was adapted from The Legendary Cuisine of Persia by Margaret Shaida.

For a more festive and beautiful look, add a few drops of organic, all-natural food coloring.

Toot-Marzipan Mulberries

Ingredients

-1 cup ground almonds
-1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
-2 tablespoons rosewater, more if needed
-1 teaspoon ground cardamom
-1/2 cup white granulated sugar

-2 tablespoons slivered pistachios or almonds

Method:

1. In a bowl, combine ground almonds, confectioners' sugar, and cardamom powder. Mix well.
2. Gradually add the rosewater, one tablespoon and a time, until the mixture comes together into a soft paste. 
3. Take a small piece of the mixture, roll it into a ball, and shape it gently into a mulberry (toot) form.
4. Roll each toot in granulated sugar to coat all sides evenly.
5. Press a slivered pistachio or almond into the top of each toot.

Arrange on a candy platter and serve.

Enjoy!

Naan Berenji - Persian Rice Flour Cookies

نان برنجی Naan Berenji Kermanshahi is one of my favorite Persian sweets, traditionally prepared for Nowruz (Persian New Year). Naan berenji cookies are rich in flavor without being overly sweet. They are wonderful to eat all year-round and are especially delicious with a freshly brewed cup of hot tea or coffee, particularly on a cold day.

 I have wanted to write about naan berenji for a long time, but I must admit that, despite buying them from different bakeries and trying several recipes myself over the years, the results were always somewhat disappointing. None ever quite tasted like the authentic naan berenji from Kermanshah. I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to recreate those cookies so that they smell and taste like the way they did the first time I tried them, during a family trip to Kermanshah many years ago. 

I remember that summer trip vividly. I recall the evening we approached the Bisotoon mountain area as the sun was setting, and my father was exhausted from driving for so many hours. We stopped at a قهوه خانه (ghaveh-khaneh), a small roadside coffee house and rest area in the middle of nowhere. My father asked about the nearest place where our family could sleep for the night, but the suggested hotels were too far to reach. The owner offered us the rooftop of the ghahveh-khaneh instead. And so that is where we spent the night. 

The memory of the six of us climbing an old, flimsy ladder one by one, lying down on a single blanket with no pillows or any sheets, staring up at the sky, the moon, and stars until I fell asleep, is still etched in my mind. And all the while,  بیستون Bisotoon, felt so close,  looming above us as if it might topple down at any moment!  

As a child, those family summer trips, endless, dusty zigzags across the country, felt exhausting, dreadful, and pointless. Looking back now, I am most grateful for having seen so many corners of my beautiful country.

In my recent attempt,  I tried Najmieh Batmangelij's naan berenji recipe, from her A Taste of Persia cookbook, a try, and I was very pleased with the results. The next day, when I went to count how many cookies the batch had made and to take a few photos, there were only a few left on the plate!

Naan Berenji - Persian Rice Flour Cookies

Ingredients

Makes about 25 cookies

-3 cups rice flour
-3 egg yolks
-1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
-1/2 cup vegetable oil
-2 tablespoons fine sugar
-1 teaspoon ground cardamom
-1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (optional)

For Topping:

-2 tablespoons poppy seeds or crushed pistachios

For Syrup:

-1 1/2  cup white sugar
-1/2 cup of water
-1 tablespoon rose water

Method:

1. Combine the sugar and water in a small pot over medium heat, bring to a boil, and stir for about 5 minutes, or until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat and simmer for another 7-10 minutes or until the syrup thickens to one cup. Remove from heat, add the rosewater, and let cool. completely.
2. In a bowl, mix rice flour with the powdered cardamom. Set aside.
3. In a mixing bowl, whisk the eggs with fine sugar until smooth and creamy. Add the butter and oil and beat well until fluffy.
4. Add the vanilla extract and the flour, then gradually add in one cup of the sugar syrup and beat well with an electric mixer/hand mixer.
5. Transfer the dough to a covered container and refrigerate for about 6 hours.
6. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
7. Take a tablespoon of the dough, flatten it into round shapes in the palm of your hand, and shape the surface with a cookie stamp or a teaspoon. Sprinkle with poppy seeds and arrange on the baking sheets. 
8. Bake for 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer gently to cooling racks.

Once cooled, arrange on a serving platter and serve with tea or coffee.

Enjoy!

Yazdi Cupcakes (Cake Yazdi)

This is a no-frosting, mildly sweet cupcake with the delicate aroma of rosewater, a hint of cardamom, and a sprinkle of pistachios on top. کیک یزدی Cake Yazdi takes its name from the historic city of Yazd, the capital of Yazd province in central Iran. Light yet flavorful, these traditional cupcakes make a delightful treat that can be enjoyed any time of the day.

They are perfect for packing into a child's lunchbox, bringing along to family picnics, or tucking into a bag for a road trip or flight. That's exactly how I remember my last Yazdi cake from back home -- on the plane, en route to New York many years ago. One of our relatives handed me a brown paper bag filled with freshly baked Yazdi cakes amidst the tears and goodbyes at Tehran's Airport. To this day, that simple gesture remains one of my sweetest memories.

Cake Yazdi -Yazdi Cupcakes 

Ingredients

Makes 20-22 cupcakes

-2 cups all-purpose flour
-1/2 cup rice flour
-1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
-4 eggs, at room temperature
-1 cup unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
-1 cup strained yogurt, at room temperature
-1 teaspoon baking powder
-1 teaspoon baking soda
-1/2 teaspoon cardamom powder
-2 tablespoons rosewater
-2 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two cupcake trays with paper liners.
2. In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.
3. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition (about 1 minute per egg). Stir in the rosewater.
4. Beat in the yogurt, adding it one scoop at a time until fully incorporated..
5. In a separate bowl, sift together the all-purpose flour, rice flour, baking powder, baking soda, and cardamom. Gently fold the dry ingredients into the wet mixture until just combined.
6. Spoon the batter into the cupcake liners about two-thirds full.
7. Sprinkle the tops with chopped pistachios.
8. Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the cupcakes are light golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
9. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Enjoy with a freshly brewed cup of tea or coffee.

Enjoy!