Kookoo Khorfeh - Purslane Kookoo

Every year from mid-spring to late summer, I eagerly await the appearance of dark-green خرفه (purslane) sprouts in my backyard, peeking through the vegetable garden, flower borders, and even the cracks between the cement. Often under-appreciated and overlooked, purslane has always been one of my favorites.  A handful of fresh succulent leaves can elevate almost any dish, adding a slightly tart and peppery flavor. Packed with omega-3 fatty acids, fiber, vitamin A, vitamin B, and many other nutrients, purslane is as nourishing as it is flavorful. 

Purslane (portulaca oleracea) has been labeled as a garden weed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and I gave up looking for it in stores long ago. In Iran, and in many other countries, khorfeh (purslane) happens to be a popular summer green. I'm always looking for different ways to prepare it, but with the little purslane I manage to gather, I can't get too creative! I usually add it to salad shirazi, mast o khiar, sabzi khordan, and even fruit salads. Tokhm-e khorfeh, purslane's black seeds, are used in Iranian baking and sprinkled over naan berenji and shirini keshmeshi for extra flavor.

On a recent trip to the grocery store, I was delighted to find rows of purslane nicely stacked on the shelf, imported all the way from Mexico! I bought a few bunches and then decided to make کوکوخرفه kookoo khorfeh - purslane kookoo with parsley, chives, and caramelized onion.

Now that summer is almost behind us, only a few purslane plants are remaining in the garden, and I wanted to share this recipe before the season officially ends. I usually find it much easier to bake kookoo sabzi in the oven rather than cook it on the stovetop; it's simpler and doesn't require flipping the wedges halfway through. For this recipe, though, I chose to make it the traditional way on the stovetop, just as my mother used to cook almost all her dishes. I know many of you like to add a bit of baking powder to your kookoo for a lighter texture, dishes, so feel free to mix in about a teaspoon if you prefer.

Kookoo Khorfeh - Purslane Kookoo

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-2 bunches of purslane (about 2 cups chopped), use the leaves and the thin part of the stems, discarding the thicker ends
-1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley ( about 1 cup chopped)
-1 bunch fresh tareh (chives) or scallions (green parts only) (about 1 cup chopped)
-6 large eggs, beaten
-1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
-1 tablespoon finely diced walnuts (optional)
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric

-1/2 teaspoon paprika 

-1/2 teaspoon salt
-1/4 teaspoon black pepper
-A pinch of red pepper 
-Vegetable oil or olive oil for frying

Method:

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion slices until translucent, then add the turmeric and stir. Reduce the heat and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden brown. Set aside.
2. In a large bowl, combine the chopped purslane, parsley, chives, caramelized onion, walnuts, eggs, paprika, red pepper, and season with salt and black pepper. Mix until well blended.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Pour in the egg mixture, and spread evenly. Cover and cook on low heat for about 30 minutes. Cut the kookoo into 8 wedges, turning each piece carefully halfway through cooking with a fork and spatula. You can also slice the kookoo after it is fully cooked. 

Serve warm or at room temperature with mast o khiar, salad shirazi, torshi, and warm bread.

Enjoy!

Dolmeh Barg-e Kalam - Persian Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

دلمه برگ کلم - Dolmeh barg-e kalam (stuffed cabbage leaves) is a delicious variation of the well-loved dolmeh (stuffed vegetable) family popular across Iran and neighboring regions. This dish was a staple in our home growing up, and one of my mother's personal favorites. 

I had heard my mother's story of a Nowruz (Persian New Year) long ago, when she was young. She single-handedly stuffed nearly 100 cabbage leaves with a fragrant mixture of herbs, rice, meat, and a few sweet raisins. That day, her dolmeh-ye kalam became legendary, the most exquisite and memorable version she ever made, enjoyed by family, distant relatives, and friends who visited during the Nowruz holiday.

To achieve the best results in preparing Persian meals, beyond basic culinary skills, you need a genuine appreciation for the creativity, wisdom, care, and effort that go into most Iranian dishes. Along with skills and enthusiasm, a touch of patience is essential. Persian food takes time, but don't let that discourage you. In Persian cooking, every ingredient counts and every step matters. 

For those who are short on time or are not as passionate about cooking, there are plenty of classic Persian dishes that are simple, satisfying, and perfect for any time of the day, such as kookoo sibzamini, kookoo sabzi, borani esfenaj, kotlet, or the comforting combinations of noon o panir o gerdoo (bread, cheese, and walnuts) or noon o mast (bread and yogurt).

While the tasty dolmeh-ye barg kalam is simmering away in its rich tomato-based sauce on the stove, I often think about those before us, the generations who prepared meals for their families centuries ago,  cooking over wood fires when water could only be reached through قنات - qanat (underground aqueducts), چاه آب  (wells), or چشمه (springs). Somehow, they managed to preserve their culinary traditions and pass them on, verbally and lovingly, to the next generation, keeping alive the art of feeding both body and soul. 

I feel strongly about maintaining the authenticity of our recipes as much as possible, and about not letting them be forgotten or overlooked, amid our hectic and hurried lifestyles.  

I leave you with this poem by Saadi Shirazi:

ابر و باد و مه و خورشید و فلک در کارند              تا تو نانی به کف آری و به غفلت نخوری

سعدی شیرازی ~

Clouds, wind, mist, the sun, and the universe are all at work so that you may earn your daily bread and not consume it in oblivion.

This dolmeh recipe is known for its delicate sweet-sour flavor. Depending on your taste, you can adjust the amount of sugar or lemon juice (or vinegar) to your liking. I personally prefer mine on the tangy side, so I skip the sugar. If you like to add raisins to the filling, they bring just the right amount of natural sweetness, a much healthier alternative to sugar. You can even mix equal parts barberries and raisins to achieve that beautiful balance of sweet-sour flavors. 

One final note: my mother's original recipe did not include any tomato sauce - that's just my own little addition, a nod to the modern palate and an ode to tomato.

Dolmeh Barg-e Kalam - Stuffed Cabbage Leaves

Ingredients
Serves 6

-1 large cabbage, washed, center core removed

For filling:

-2/3 pound lean ground beef
-1/2 cup long-grain rice, rinsed
-1/2 cup yellow split peas, rinsed
-1 1/2 cups of chopped fresh herbs (a combination of flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, chives, dill, basil, tarragon, mint) washed, hard stems removed
-1/4 - 1/2 cup raisins (optional)
-1/4 - 1/2 cup barberries (optional)
-1 large yellow onion, chopped
-2 large garlic cloves, minced
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-A pinch of cumin
-2 tablespoons liquid saffron
-Salt and pepper

For the Sauce:

-2 tablespoons tomato paste
-1 medium onion, thinly sliced
-Juice of a large lemon/lime or a tablespoon of vinegar
-1 tablespoon powdered sugar (optional)
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Vegetable oil/olive oil

Method:

1. In a large pot, bring 6-8 cups of water to a boil over high heat, add a tablespoon of salt, then gently add the head of cabbage to the boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes. Then drain. Carefully separate the cabbage leaves, and cut out the hard rib in each leaf. Set aside. 
2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion, and saute until light golden brown. Add the minced garlic and the turmeric powder, stirring and cooking for a few more minutes.
3. Add the ground beef, along with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the meat is fully browned. Set aside.
4. In a medium pot, combine the rice and the yellow split peas, and add enough water to cover the rice by an inch. Stir in a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of oil. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat, partially cover to let the steam escape, and cook until the water is fully absorbed. Set aside.
5.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the meat mixture, rice, peas, chopped herbs, cumin, and saffron. Mix well. 
6. In a large pan, saute the sliced onion in 3 tablespoons of olive oil until translucent, add a tablespoon of tomato paste, and cook for 2-3 minutes until it loses its raw taste. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add 3 cups of water and bring to a gentle simmer. Let the sauce thicken slightly.
7. While the sauce simmers, place a small scoop of the mixture into the center of each cabbage leaf. Fold in the bottom, sides, and roll up tightly to form a neat wrap.
8. Arrange the stuffed cabbage rolls, seam-side down, next to each other in a large pot. Pour the tomato sauce over the dolmeh, cover, and cook on medium-low heat for 1 hour. In the last 10-15 minutes of cooking, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar and just a sprinkle of sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To serve: arrange the dolmeh on a platter and serve warm with mast-o-khiar and sabzi khordan.

At the beach with family!

Enjoy!

Kookoo-ye Marchoobeh - Persian-Style Asparagus Frittata with Fresh Herbs, Walnuts and Barberries

کوکوی مارچوبه (Asparagus kookoo) recipe came about as a result of a recent trip to my local vegetable market, where I noticed bundles of fresh green asparagus neatly tied and arranged on the shelves. I enjoy the taste of fresh asparagus, either steamed or grilled plain with just a little bit of coarse salt. However, as I reached to pick a bundle up, it dawned on me that I had never cooked a Persian-style asparagus meal, and among seemingly endless options, I decided to make a new version of kookoo/kuku incorporating asparagus.

Growing up in Iran, I remember hearing my mother talk about marchoobeh (asparagus), but I don't remember eating or even seeing any asparagus back then. Perhaps asparagus wasn't very popular or widely cultivated, and therefore it was not available among the wide range of vegetables then.

To enjoy the in-season asparagus, I have combined fresh herbs, chopped walnuts, and barberries with eggs, and I'm very happy with the results. For this recipe, I have added a touch of cayenne and cumin to bring just the right amount of flavor to the egg and asparagus combination. I must point out, though, that the traditional kookoo/kuku sabzi, like most dishes in Persian cuisine, is not spicy at all.  I also did not chop the vegetables as finely as I normally would for the traditional kookoo. For those unable to find barberries, you can substitute them with dried cranberries instead.

Kookoo-ye Marchoobeh - Asparagus Frittata

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-1 pound fresh asparagus (about 20 medium-sized stalks), ends snapped and cut into 2-inch pieces
-8 large eggs
-1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
-1 cup chopped fresh scallion (green parts only)
-A few sprigs of fresh mint, chopped
-1/2 cup chopped walnuts
-1/2 cup dried barberries (can be found in most Persian grocery stores), picked over and rinsed well
-1/4 teaspoon turmeric
-A pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
-A generous pinch of cumin (optional)
-Salt and pepper to taste
-Olive oil (extra virgin) or vegetable oil

Method:

1. Heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté the asparagus pieces lightly for about 5 minutes. Sprinkle a bit of salt over the asparagus.
2. In the meantime, combine the chopped herbs, walnuts, barberries, and spices together in a large mixing bowl.
3. In a medium-size bowl, beat the eggs until yolks and whites are completely blended. Add salt and pepper to taste.
4. Pour the egg over the herbs and walnut mixture in the large bowl and blend well.
5. Add the egg and herb mixture over the sauteed asparagus in the skillet. With a spatula flatten the surface of the kookoo. As eggs start to set, take the spatula and run it around the edges and make four large wedges or eight small ones in the skillet. Cover and cook for 25-30 minutes on medium-low heat.

To serve, cut the kookoo into small wedges and place it onto a platter. May be served hot or at room temperature with yogurt, salad shirazi, torshi, and bread.

Enjoy!

Javaher Polow - Persian Jeweled Rice

Javaher Polow (Jeweled Rice) is a traditional rice dish often served at weddings, engagement parties, and other joyous celebrations. It would make a fitting first post for the new year. The vibrant combination of colors, textures, and flavors — saffron basmati rice layered with slivered pistachios, almonds, raisins, barberries, julienne-cut carrots, and orange skin —is truly a cheerful feast for the eyes and senses.

The word javaher (jewel) was one I often heard in childhood stories told by Halimeh, my daieh (nanny). Halimeh was a gifted storyteller, enchanting me with tales of kings and queens, dokhtar-e shah parian, malek Jamshid, malek Khorshid, and other mythical figures. Her magical stories carried me to a fantasy world of royalty, where the girl always married her prince charming and lived a life of splendor, surrounded by gold, glittering diamonds, fiery red rubies, lush emeralds, and the largest pearls.

After each storytelling session, I would rush to my mother to share these fairytales. She would pause, smile, and tell me one of her own ancient fables that taught a lesson, bringing me back to earth. One of her favorites was the story of Molla Nasr al-din, a satirical wise man whose humorous stories are known throughout Iran and many neighboring countries. 

Here's a brief version of one such tale:

Molla was once invited to the home of a nobleman in his town. Dressed in his warm, comfortable, and rather shabby clothes, he went to the door, only to be turned away by the doorman for looking unrefined. He returned home, changed into his best garment trimmed with silver trimmings, combed his hair, dabbed on perfume, and went back. This time, he was warmly welcomed and offered the seat of honor at the top of the sofreh (tablecloth). To everyone's shock, Molla began scooping soup onto his jacket, tucking rice into his pockets, and stuffing stew in his sleeves. The nobleman demanded an explanation. Molla replied, "When I came earlier in my ordinary clothes, you refused to let me in. But now that I'm wearing this fancy jacket, I am treated with respect. Since it's the clothes that are honored here, not me, I might as well feed the jacket!"

Javaher Polow - Persian Jeweled Rice

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-2 1/2 cups long-grain white basmati rice
-1 medium onion, peeled, thinly sliced

-1/2 cup julienned carrots

-2 large oranges, washed, dried (about 1/2 cup julienned orange peel)
-1/2 cup sliced pistachios ( may be soaked in cool water to soften)
-1/2 cup slivered almonds (may be soaked in cool water before cooking to soften)
-1/2 cup coarsely chopped hazelnuts (optional)
-1 cup barberries ( available at Middle Eastern grocery stores)
-1/2 cup raisins (a mix of black and golden works well)
-1/2 cup sugar
-1/2 teaspoon powdered saffron dissolved in 3-4 tablespoons hot water
-1/3 teaspoon ground cardamom
-1/3 teaspoon ground cumin
-1/2 teaspoon crushed rose petals
-1/3 teaspoon turmeric
-Salt 
-Butter and oil

Method:

1. In a large bowl, wash the rice with cool water several times. Soak the rice in 6 cups of water, add 3 tablespoons of salt, for 1-2 hours.
2.  In a large pot, bring 3 quarts of water to a rapid boil over medium-high heat. Drain the soaked rice and gently add it to the pot. Boil for about 7 minutes, or until the grains have lengthened, the ends are soft, and the centers are slightly firm. Drain in a colander and rinse with cool water. Set aside.
3. Peel the oranges, remove the white part, and cut the peel into thin stripes. Soak in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain and repeat 2-3 times to reduce bitterness.
4. Combine 1/2 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water in a small pan. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat for about 7-10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add the orange peel and carrots and cook for 15 minutes on low heat. Set aside
5.  Melt 2 tablespoons of butter with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until golden. Stir in the turmeric, then add the barberries. Sauté for 5 minutes on medium-low heat. Add raisins and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of sugar on top. Mix well.
6. Add the carrots and orange peel to the pan. Sprinkle with cardamom, cumin, and crushed rose petals. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Stir in the pistachios and almonds, mix gently.
7. In a large, non-stick pot, heat 4 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Gently layer the rice and the nut-fruit mixture into a pyramid shape. 
8. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for about 7 minutes, until you see steam rising. Pour over 2-3 tablespoons of melted butter, 1/4 cup of water, and the saffron mixture. Cover the lid with a clean dishcloth or thick paper towel. Cook on low heat for 45-50 minutes.   

To serve, gently mound the rice onto a serving platter. Garnish and serve warm. Jeweled rice pairs well with chicken, small meatballs, salad, and yogurt. 

 * Variation:
 Cook the rice separately and garnish with the nuts, carrots, raisins, orange zest, and barberries just before serving. Keep the topping warm until ready to assemble and serve.

Enjoy!

Khoresh-e Khalal Badam & Zereshk - Slivered Almonds & Barberry Stew

I've been wanting to make this nutty, tangy, saffron-scented lamb stew for a long time, and it's every bit as beautiful, flavorful, and aromatic as I hoped. I usually use barberries to make zereshk polow (rice with barberries), a staple in our family, but they also shine in this stew, adding tartness that balances the richness of the lamb. Barberries (Zereshk) are widely cultivated in the north-eastern region of Iran, in Khorasan.

I like my خورش خلال بادام khoresh khalal badam to be filled with slivered almonds and barberries. The more common version of this stew is usually made without any yellow split peas, but I enjoy the flavor and texture they add. If you prefer a thinner khoresh, you may omit them. Barberries (zereshk) are tiny, jewel-like berries that add a touch of tartness and a beautiful color to Persian dishes. 

Khoresh-e Khalal Badam- Slivered Almonds & Barberry Stew

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-1 1/2 pounds lamb, or beef, washed and cubed
-1 cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted
-1 cup dried barberries, picked over and rinsed
-1 cup yellow split peas, picked over and rinsed (optional)
-1 large onion, thinly sliced
-2 garlic cloves, minced
-2 tablespoons tomato paste
-1/2 teaspoon turmeric
-1/3 teaspoon cinnamon
-1/3 teaspoon crushed saffron dissolved in 2 tablespoons of hot water
-1-2 tablespoons rose water (optional)

 - Olive oil or vegetable oil, as needed
-Salt and pepper, to taste

Method:

1. Lightly toast the almond slivers in a dry pan for 3-5 minutes over medium to low heat. Set aside.
2. In a small frying pan, lightly sauté the barberries in 1-2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat for a few minutes. Set aside.
3. In a small pan, saute the tomato paste in a tablespoon of oil for 2-3 minutes over medium heat. Set aside. This step deepens the flavor of the stew.
4. Heat 2-3 tablespoons of oil in a large pot. Sauté the sliced onions over medium heat until translucent. Add garlic and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Stir in the turmeric until well blended. 
5. Add the meat and brown on all sides. Season with salt, black pepper, and cinnamon.  
6. Push the meat mixture to the sides of the pot, add the split peas in the center, and fry for a few minutes to remove their raw flavor. (Alternatively, cook the split peas separately in two cups of water and add them halfway through cooking.) 
7. Stir in the sauteed tomato paste and pour in enough water to cover the meat by about two inches.
8. Cover and cook for 30 minutes over medium to low heat. Add the toasted almonds, mix well, and cook for another 20 minutes. Add water if needed.
9. Add barberries and saffron. Adjust seasoning to taste and cook for another 20-30 minutes until the meat is tender and the flavors are well blended. Add rose water during the last 10 minutes of cooking. 

Serve warm with rice, pickles (torshi), fresh herbs, and yogurt.

Enjoy!

Tah-Chin - Persian Upside Down Layered Saffron Rice & Chicken

Tahchin is a divine Persian dish consisting of layered saffron rice and tender chicken breasts, bound together with a seasoned yogurt and egg yolk mixture. We Iranians love our rice and enjoy layering it with various types of vegetables and meats, but the most sought-after part of this dish is its golden crispy bottom layer of rice (tahdig).  ته چین Tah-chin is the tahdig lovers galore! Once cooked, it's served upside down, so you can enjoy both the fragrant saffron rice and a thick, crunchy tahdig in every bite. "Tah" means "bottom" in Persian, and chin comes from chidan, which means to arrange or layer.

Tah-Chin - Upside Down Layered Saffron Rice & Chicken

Ingredients
Serves 4-6

-2 1/2 cups long-grain basmati rice, rinsed and soaked in salted water (2-3 tablespoons of salt) for a couple of hours. Drain.
-2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
-2 eggs, yolks only
-1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
-1 teaspoon ground saffron, dissolved in 4 tablespoons of hot water
-1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced
-1/4 teaspoon turmeric

-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice  
-Salt to taste
-Butter or olive oil
-Chicken stock  *optional

Garnish: barberries, slivered almonds, or pistachios 

Method

1. Place the chicken breasts in a pot along with sliced onions, add turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat, add 1 tablespoon of saffron water, cover, and cook for 50 minutes. Remove from heat, let cool slightly, then shred or cut into small pieces. Mix in the lemon juice and set aside. 
2. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the rice and cook for 7 minutes, until the grains are soft on the outside but still firm in the center. Then rinse briefly with cool water to remove excess starch and separate the grains. Set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the yogurt, egg yolks, remaining saffron, and a pinch of salt. 
4. Add the drained rice and 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the yogurt mixture, and blend well.
5. In a nonstick pan, heat 3 tablespoons of oil, swirling to coat the bottom evenly. Spread 1/2 of the rice mixture into the pot and press down gently with the back of a spoon. Evenly layer the chicken on top, then cover with the remaining rice mixture. Smooth and press down gently. Drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons strained chicken stock, melted butter, or oil for extra flavor.
6. Cover the pot with a lid wrapped in a clean kitchen towel. Cook over medium heat until you see steam, then reduce to low and cook for 45-50 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed, because of the yogurt and egg yolks, the bottom can burn if too hot.
7. Let the tahchin cool for 5 minutes. Place a serving platter that is larger than the pot. Hold firmly with oven mitts, and carefully flip it upside down. Lift the pot away. Garnish with barberries, almonds, or pistachios

Tah-chin pairs well with plain yogurt, mast o khiar, salad Shirazi, or torshi.

Enjoy!