January 20, 2011

Toot - Mulberry (Persian-Style Marzipan Confection)

Persian Marzipan Mulberries- Toot Badami

توت Toot (mulberry) is the sweet fruit of the mulberry tree. The black mulberry fruit is called shahtoot (king mulberry) in Persian. Toot Badami is a Persian-style marzipan mulberries made of a mixture of ground almond and sugar molded into the white mulberry fruit. Toot is traditionally made for Nowruz (Persian New Year) and wedding ceremonies to bring in the sweetness. This is a simple and quick sweet that doesn't require baking and is made with only a few ingredients. It's also something fun to make with your kids for special occasions.


If you grew up in Iran you most likely have a memory of either climbing up into the mulberry tree, shaking the branches and/or excitedly collecting the ripe fruits. In spring time, when I pass by the mulberry trees filled with white, red or black fruits on the trees on my way to the park where I live, a small town on Long Island, I can't help but think of the joy and the memories of picking mulberries as a child.

Fresh, ripe mulberry fruits are sweet and juicy. White mulberries are usually sun-dried and served along with tea as a milder, healthy alternative and delightful sweetener. They are the preferred sweets for those who need to control their sugar intake. White mulberry leaves are the main source of food for silkworms. Planting mulberry trees and producing luxurious silk had been encouraged many centuries ago since Persia was one of the countries along the trade route from China to Europe called Jadeh-Abrisham (The Silk Road). Some of the towns on the route include, Kermanshah, Hamadan, Ray, Yazd and Nayshabour.

Sassanid silk twill textile of a Simorgh in a beaded surround, 6–7th century, Wikipedia
Jadeh Abrisham, The Silk Road, Wikipedia
Toot (Mulberries) Persian-Style Marzipan Maulberries

This recipe was adapted from The Legendary Cuisine of Persia by Margaret Shaida.
For a more festive and beautiful look, add a few drops of organic all-natural  food coloring.

Toot-Marzipan Mulberries


1 cup ground almonds
1/2 cup confectioners sugar
2 tablespoons rosewater, more if needed
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 cup white granulated sugar
2 tablespoons slivered pistachios or almonds

  1. In a bowl combine ground almonds, confectioners sugar and cardamom powder, mix to combine.
  2. Gradually add the rosewater, one tablespoon and a time, blend in until well incorporated. Mix the ingredients into a soft paste. 
  3. Take a small piece of the mixture, form into a ball and shape into a toot (mulberry).
  4. Place each toot on a plate and sprinkle with granulated sugar, covering all sides.
  5. Place a slivered pistachio or almond on top of each toot.
Arrange on a candy platter and serve.


January 10, 2011

Javaher Polow - Persian Jeweled Rice

Persian Jeweled Rice

جواهرپلو Javaher Polow (jeweled rice) is a traditional rice dish for weddings, engagement parties and other joyous celebrations. I thought this would make a fitting first post for the new year. The combination of colors, textures, flavors and aromas of saffron basmati rice layered with slivered pistachios, almonds, raisins, barberries, julienne-cut carrots and skin is truly a cheerful feast for your eyes and senses.

The word javaher (jewel) was a frequently uttered word in childhood stories that I would hear from Halimeh, my daieh (nanny). She was abandoned by her father and her stepmother at only ten years old and somehow found her way to my grandparent's home and lived with my grandmother till the last years of her life. She was quite a charming storyteller with a talent for tales of  kings, queens, princesses, stories of dokhtar-e shah parian, malek Jamshid, malek Khorshid and many others. Her fascinating fairy-tales would take me to a  fantasy world of aristocracy where the girl would always end up marrying her prince charming and lead a lavish life with all things made of gold and covered with the most brilliant diamonds, fiery red rubies, the greenest emeralds and the largest pearls!

Then, I would go to my mother with these magical stories. She would pause for a moment, smile, and tell me one of her own ancient fables (the long versions!) to teach me lessons, bring me back to reality and put my feet firmly on the ground. One of those such stories was of Molla Nasr al-din, a satirical wise man who lived during the Middle Ages. His anecdotal stories are well known in Iran and many of the neighboring countries in the region. Here's a brief version of it:

Molla was invited to the house of a nobleman in his town. He chose to wear his warm, comfortable and shabby clothes. When he arrived at the door, the doorman quickly turned him back for he did not look prim and proper enough. Molla goes home and puts his best garment on with silver trimmings around his high fancy collar and his long sleeves. He combed his hair and put on some perfume and headed to the dinner party. When he arrived, he was well received and was offered the seat at the top of the sofreh (table cloth). To everyone's dismay, Molla scooped some soup out and poured it all over his jacket. Then he placed some rice in his pocket and topped it with some lamb stew. As he was stuffing food in his sleeves he was stopped by the nobleman who demanded an explanation for Molla's mad behavior. Molla responded, "When I came in the first time, with my comfortable home clothes, you didn't let me in the house. Now that I put on this fancy jacket I am suddenly treated with respect. Since these are the clothes that get recognized I might as well feed the food to the jacket!"

Javaher Polow - Persian Jeweled Rice

Serves 4-6

2 1/2 cups long grain white basmati rice
1 medium onion, peeled, thinly sliced
1/2 cup sliced pistachios, may be soaked in cool water to soften
1/2 cup slivered almonds, may be soaked in cool water prior to cooking to soften
1/2 cup coarsely chopped hazelnuts *optional
1 cup barberries, may be found in middle-eastern grocery stores
1/2 cup raisins, I used a combination of both black and golden raisins
1/2 cup julienne-cut carrots
2 large oranges, wash, dry, makes about 1/2 cup julienne cut orange skin
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon powdered saffron dissolved in 3-4 tablespoons of hot water
1/3 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/3 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon crushed rose petals
1/3 teaspoon turmeric

  1. In a large bowl wash the rice with cool water a few times. Soak the rice in 8 cups of water, add 4 tablespoons of salt and set aside for a couple of hours.
  2.  In a large pot bring 3 quarts of water to a rapid boil on medium-high heat. Drain the soaked rice and gently pour into the pot. Bring the water back to the boil for about 7 minutes or until the rice grains expand in length, the ends are soft to the touch and the center of the grain still has a bite to it. Drain in a colander, rinse with cool water. Set aside.
  3. Peel the orange skin, remove the white part and cut the orange peel into thin stripes. Soak in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain and repeat 2-3 more times.
  4. Combine 1/2 cup of sugar and a cup of water in a pan over medium heat, gently boil for 7-10 minutes or until the sugar dissolves completely and thickens slightly. Add the orange zest and carrots and cook for 15-20 minutes on low heat.
  5.  Melt 2 tablespoons of butter and in a large skillet, add a tablespoon of vegetable oil, when hot saute the onions until golden brown, add turmeric and stir well. Add barberries, saute for 5 minutes on medium to low heat, add raisins, sprinkle a tablespoon of sugar on top and mix well.
  6. Mix in the carrots and orange zest. Sprinkle the spices, taste and adjust the seasoning.   
  7. Add pistachios and almonds, mix well.
  8. In a large, non-stick rice pot, heat 4 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Gently layer the rice with the nuts and carrot mixture into a pyramid shape. 
  9. Cook on medium-high heat for 7 minutes, lower the heat when you see the rice starting to steam. Pour 2 tablespoons melted butter, 1/4 cup of water and the saffron over the rice. Cover the lid in a clean dish cloth or thick paper towels. Cover the rice pot and cook for 45-50 minutes over low heat. Don't open the lid before the rice is done cooking.  
To serve, mound rice on a serving platter. Garnish and serve warm. Jeweled rice may be served with chicken, small meatballs, salad and yogurt. 

 * Variation:
 Cook the rice separately and and garnish with the nuts, carrots, raisins, orange zest and barberries right before serving. Keep the mixture warm until ready to layer, garnish and serve.