January 20, 2011

Toot - Mulberry (Persian-Style Marzipan Confection)


Persian Marzipan Mulberries- Toot Badami

توت Toot (mulberry) is the sweet fruit of the mulberry tree. Toot Badami is a Persian-style marzipan treat inspired by the white mulberry. It's made from a mixture of ground almonds and sugar, molded into the shape of a white mulberry fruit, and often decorated with pistachio "stems." 
Traditionally, toot is prepared for Nowruz (Persian New Year) and wedding ceremonies to symbolize sweetness and prosperity. This is a simple and quick sweet that requires only a few ingredients. It's also a fun activity to do with your kids on special occasions.

Chai-o-Toot

If you grew up in Iran, you likely have a memory of climbing a mulberry tree, shaking its branches, or eagerly collecting the ripe fruits that tumbled down. In springtime, when I pass by the mulberry trees heavy with white, red,  or black berries on my way to the park near my home in a small Long Island town,  I can't help but feel a wave of nostalgia, remembering the joy of picking mulberries as a child.

Fresh, ripe mulberry fruits are sweet and juicy. White mulberries are often sun-dried and enjoyed with tea as a mild, naturally sweet treat, a healthy alternative for those who need to watch their sugar intake. 

Interestingly, white mulberry leaves are the main source of food for silkworms. Many centuries ago, the cultivation of mulberry trees and the production of silk were highly encouraged in Persia, which lay along the ancient trade route from China to Europe called Jadeh-Abrisham (The Silk Road). Some of the towns on the route included Kermanshah, Hamadan, Ray, Yazd, and Nayshabour.

Sassanid silk twill textile of a Simorgh in a beaded surround, 6–7th century, Wikipedia
Jadeh Abrisham, The Silk Road, Wikipedia
Toot (Mulberries) Persian-Style Marzipan Maulberries

This recipe was adapted from The Legendary Cuisine of Persia by Margaret Shaida.
For a more festive and beautiful look, add a few drops of organic, all-natural food coloring.

Toot-Marzipan Mulberries

Ingredients

-1 cup ground almonds
-1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
-2 tablespoons rosewater, more if needed
-1 teaspoon ground cardamom
-1/2 cup white granulated sugar
-2 tablespoons slivered pistachios or almonds

Method:
  1. In a bowl, combine ground almonds, confectioners' sugar, and cardamom powder. Mix well.
  2. Gradually add the rosewater, one tablespoon and a time, until the mixture comes together into a soft paste. 
  3. Take a small piece of the mixture, roll it into a ball, and shape it gently into a mulberry (toot) form.
  4. Roll each toot in granulated sugar to coat all sides evenly.
  5. Press a slivered pistachio or almond into the top of each toot.
Arrange on a candy platter and serve.

Enjoy!

January 10, 2011

Javaher Polow - Persian Jeweled Rice

Persian Jeweled Rice

Javaher Polow (Jeweled Rice) is a traditional rice dish often served at weddings, engagement parties, and other joyous celebrations. It would make a fitting first post for the new year. The vibrant combination of colors, textures, and flavors — saffron basmati rice layered with slivered pistachios, almonds, raisins, barberries, julienne-cut carrots, and orange skin —is truly a cheerful feast for the eyes and senses.


The word javaher (jewel) was one I often heard in childhood stories told by Halimeh, my daieh (nanny). Halimeh was a gifted storyteller, enchanting me with tales of kings and queens, dokhtar-e shah parian, malek Jamshid, malek Khorshid, and other mythical figures. Her magical stories carried me to a fantasy world of royalty, where the girl always married her prince charming and lived a life of splendor, surrounded by gold, glittering diamonds, fiery red rubies, lush emeralds, and the largest pearls.

After each storytelling session, I would rush to my mother to share these fairytales. She would pause, smile, and tell me one of her own ancient fables that taught a lesson, bringing me back to earth. One of her favorites was the story of Molla Nasr al-din, a satirical wise man whose humorous stories are known throughout Iran and many neighboring countries. 

Here's a brief version of one such tale:

Molla was once invited to the home of a nobleman in his town. Dressed in his warm, comfortable, and rather shabby clothes, he went to the door, only to be turned away by the doorman for looking unrefined. He returned home, changed into his best garment trimmed with silver trimmings, combed his hair, dabbed on perfume, and went back. This time, he was warmly welcomed and offered the seat of honor at the top of the sofreh (tablecloth). To everyone's shock, Molla began scooping soup onto his jacket, tucking rice into his pockets, and stuffing stew in his sleeves. The nobleman demanded an explanation. Molla replied, "When I came earlier in my ordinary clothes, you refused to let me in. But now that I'm wearing this fancy jacket, I am treated with respect. Since it's the clothes that are honored here, not me, I might as well feed the jacket!"


Javaher Polow - Persian Jeweled Rice

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

-2 1/2 cups long-grain white basmati rice
-1 medium onion, peeled, thinly sliced
-1/2 cup julienned carrots
-2 large oranges, washed, dried (about 1/2 cup julienned orange peel)
-1/2 cup sliced pistachios ( may be soaked in cool water to soften)
-1/2 cup slivered almonds (may be soaked in cool water before cooking to soften)
-1/2 cup coarsely chopped hazelnuts (optional)
-1 cup barberries ( available at Middle Eastern grocery stores)
-1/2 cup raisins (a mix of black and golden works well)
-1/2 cup sugar
-1/2 teaspoon powdered saffron dissolved in 3-4 tablespoons hot water
-1/3 teaspoon ground cardamom
-1/3 teaspoon ground cumin
-1/2 teaspoon crushed rose petals
-1/3 teaspoon turmeric
-Salt 
-Butter and oil

Method:
  1. In a large bowl, wash the rice with cool water several times. Soak the rice in 6 cups of water, add 3 tablespoons of salt, for 1-2 hours.
  2.  In a large pot, bring 3 quarts of water to a rapid boil over medium-high heat. Drain the soaked rice and gently add it to the pot. Boil for about 7 minutes, or until the grains have lengthened, the ends are soft, and the centers are slightly firm. Drain in a colander and rinse with cool water. Set aside.
  3. Peel the oranges, remove the white part, and cut the peel into thin stripes. Soak in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain and repeat 2-3 times to reduce bitterness.
  4. Combine 1/2 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water in a small pan. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat for about 7-10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add the orange peel and carrots and cook for 15 minutes on low heat. Set aside
  5.  Melt 2 tablespoons of butter with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until golden. Stir in the turmeric, then add the barberries. Sauté for 5 minutes on medium-low heat. Add raisins and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of sugar on top. Mix well.
  6. Add the carrots and orange peel to the pan. Sprinkle with cardamom, cumin, and crushed rose petals. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Stir in the pistachios and almonds, mix gently.
  7. In a large, non-stick pot, heat 4 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Gently layer the rice and the nut-fruit mixture into a pyramid shape. 
  8. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for about 7 minutes, until you see steam rising. Pour over 2-3 tablespoons of melted butter, 1/4 cup of water, and the saffron mixture. Cover the lid with a clean dishcloth or thick paper towel. Cook on low heat for 45-50 minutes.   
To serve, gently mound the rice onto a serving platter. Garnish and serve warm. Jeweled rice pairs well with chicken, small meatballs, salad, and yogurt. 

 * Variation:
 Cook the rice separately and garnish with the nuts, carrots, raisins, orange zest, and barberries just before serving. Keep the topping warm until ready to assemble and serve.

Enjoy!