Moraba-ye Zoghal Akhteh - Persian Cornelian Cherry Jam

Moraba-ye Zoghal Akhteh (cornelian cherry jam) recipe was a last-minute decision, as I was through simply eating a handful of these different shades of red, tangy, oval-shaped fresh summer fruits. Cornelian cherries offer numerous health benefits, and their flavor ranges from slightly bitter to tart or pleasantly tart-sweet, depending on their ripeness. With only one bowl of zoghal akhteh left on the kitchen table, I decided to make jam, and I'm happy to say that the jam turned out great. Still, lavashak-e zoghal akhteh (cornelean cherry fruit roll-up) remains my favorite way of eating this amazing fruit.

If I had a zoghal akhteh tree in my backyard, I would spread a malafeh (bedsheet) or a sofreh (tablecloth) beneath it, shake the branches vigorously, and gather the fallen fruit. This small batch, however, was picked from a Cornelian cherry tree on public property in the New York area. I only learned its English name after posting a photo of Zoghal Akhteh on my Facebook page, and thanks to my lovely followers, I finally discovered the correct name. 

Let's hope that in the future, fruit growers and producers make this delicious fruit readily available at farmers' markets here, so we won't have to hang from tree branches in parks and along busy streets. In the meantime, I enjoyed this rare find, and although cornelian cherries are hard to come by and not widely available, I'm happy to share this jam recipe with you. 

For me, zoghal akhteh is deeply reminiscent of hot Tehran summers and the best seasonal snacks and sour treats, walnuts in brine, faloodeh, goojeh sabz (green sour plums), shahtoot (mulberries), and plump dried zoghal akhteh, to name just a few.

I initially tried to remove the pits before cooking, but the Cornelian cherry pits are difficult to dislodge. As I worked, I found myself thinking of all the women that I had watched growing up in Iran, patiently seated around a sofreh, meticulously preparing fruits and vegetables for jams and pickles. Back then, it seemed like a pointless waste of time. 

In recent years, I've become much more attentive to how I cook, and especially over the past three and a half years of blogging, preserving the authenticity of recipes has become increasingly important to me. Long ingredient lists and extended cooking times are no longer overwhelming. Still, after removing a few pits with a small, sharp knife, I opted for a quicker, less tedious method: partially cooking the cherries first and removing the pits afterward. 

My mother always prepared the sugar syrup separately and added it during the cooking process. Since I had already pre-cooked the cherries, however,  I chose to add the sugar directly to the pot to avoid ending up with a runny jam. If you prefer the traditional syrup method, simply combine 2 cups of sugar with 1 cup of water in a small pot, bring to a boil over medium heat, stir until the sugar dissolves completely, and simmer until slightly thickened.

Moraba-ye Zoghal Akhteh - Cornelian Cherry Jam

Ingredients

-4 cups Cornelian cherries, picked over and washed
-2 cups sugar (adjust to taste) 
-Juice of 1 lime
-2 tablespoons rose water
-1/4 teaspoon cardamom powder

Method:

1. Place the cherries in a non-reactive, heavy-bottomed pot. Add 4 cups of water, bring to a rapid boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer on medium-low heat for 15 minutes. Do not leave the pot unattended. Stir frequently and skim off any foam if needed.
2. Set a mesh colander over a large glass bowl. Remove the pot from the heat and pour the contents into the colander.
3. Mash the cornelian cherries with a potato masher or pass them through a food mill to separate and remove the pits.
4. Return the strained liquid to the pot, including any pitted flesh that remains. Add lime juice, sugar, and cardamom powder, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat, add rose water, and simmer on medium-low heat for 20-30 minutes or until the jam thickens.
5. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
6. Pour the jam into a clean glass jar and refrigerate.
7. Serve moraba-ye zoghal akhteh with butter or feta cheese and warm noon barbari or sangak.

Cook's note: You may also use zoghal akhteh whole, without removing the seeds, to preserve their beautiful appearance and make a lovely jam.

Enjoy!